intake, header, and exhaust, pulley, oh, do u wanna go N/A or do u wanna use forced induction, if u wanna go turbo, just save the money because u wont be able to use these things i mentioned if u decide to turbo later
hmm.. save ur money until it quadruples.. then get a bluebird sr20det.. then you'll be pushing 200+ HP..
thats what i've been planning to do
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1999 nissan sentra xe
"Only the strongest survive in the streets of miami! if somebody messes with you, flick him the finger!" - my dad when i first started to drive.
Oh ~ but Nitrous kills the engine pretty fast. Am I right ?
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"Lord of the Engines -- Return of GA16DE". Film features HS header & CAI, Stromung w/ racing muffler, AD22VF brakes w/ SS lines, Konig 11lb 15" rims & Goodyear rubber, Pro-Kit & GR-2, ST sway bars, Nis-Knack front end & 03" Maxima HID, Kenwood HU & Alpine speakers, Altezza tails & lots customs. Most importantly, this baby is still pulling strong after 9 years !
Nitrous does have the potential to kill your engine.
But with the strong internals of the sr20, it can take 100 shot and still be a daily driver, and unlike turbo, you only use it when you want to, its not spooling all the time like a turbo (i'm not saying turbos are bad though)
The setup: properly programmed JWT ECU, JWT daughter board (for ECU controlled nitrous, the safest way and pretty much foolproof), 370cc injectors, and a single fogger nozzle nitrous system.
Unlike most other 4 cylinders, there is no distribution problems, because the JWT system injects the nitrous from a single fan jet located in the throttle body. As the liquid nitrous immediately flashes into a gas it will be directed in proper amounts to each cylinder.
And as with the ECU controlled nitrous, the JWT controller allows you to drive the car normally without fumbling for the squeeze button. The automatic engagement at over 4000 rpm also helps the car get out of the hole without the tires going up in smoke. The nitrous control ROM says go when the proper conditions for safe operations are present--4000 or more rpm from the crank angle sensor, and a full throttle signal from the throttle position sensor--if these conditions are met, the ROM turns on the nitrous solenoid.
For the short-term, nitrous is cheaper than turbo. Can we say that long-term? How often do you refill the bottle? How often do you USE the bottle? How much money to refill?
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Bruce in Houston
'94 Nissan Sentra SE-R w/ $tuff, converting to ITA
'98 Suzuki Bandit 1200S w/ $tuff
'02 Dodge Dakota SLT 4-dr tow beast, stock!
with a turbo, u can select different levels of power by increasing/decreasing boost. and the only thing u have to fill is the gas tank with some high octane fuel. turbos arent used (positive pressure) all the time, they are load dependent. in everday driving it is possible to drive around without boosting.
if i were to use nitrous on a nissan, i would definitely use the JWT setup. ive heard it works really well. i just prefer the turbos over nitrous or turbos and nitrous
oh yeah, I'd prefer a turbo over nitrous too, I just love that "psssshhhh," but nitrous is cheaper, so since moneys an issue, i was thinking going nitrous first, then eventually turbo.
Um....it sounds like this individual is just getting into modding his car. Telling him to slap on a turbo or do an engine swap is kind of absurd don't you think?
Turbo is great, if you want to drop $2500+ and be spending a shitload of time tuning the engine. It's common for people to throw around the turbo idea like it is not big deal but it involves a huge commitment as far as time and resources. Going from a NA engine to forced induction is never easy or cheap. Unless you know what you are doing, stick w/ your NA motor or go buy a stock turbo charged car.
Concerning no2, a stock sr20de engine can handle up to a 100 shot w/o major difficulties. However, you will have to upgrade your clutch or you will make short work of it while on spray. Nitrous is much cheaper in the short term compared to turbo ($500-$600 compared to $2500-$3000) but if you enjoy speed (like most of us) you will make quick use of a bottle. Nitrous varies as far as price by region but it is usually not all that cheap.
IMO, w/ a $1000 you should focus on common upgrades and stay away from more extreme measures until you gain more mechanical knowhow. Buy a cold-air intake, header, and exhaust and that will run roughly $1000. Advance your timing if you haven't already.
it all depends what his goal is on his car, if he wants to mod it just to do casual racing, then do the basic bolt ons (CAI,timing,Headers,Exhaust,Pulley, etc..).......that would be the best use of your 1K$ if u dont wanna put any more money in, you'll feel the difference in power.......or u can always use NOS
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