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B13 91-94 chassis 1991-1994 Sentra and 1991-1993 NX

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Old Mar 20th, 2005, 11:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
Tavel
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Flushing power steering.

My power steering fluid is brown(burnt) and i remember unwittingly topping it off with clear valvoline stuff (wrong stuff, i know now). So i was thinking of flushing the power steering system, but i wanted to run my method by you guys before i mess something up.

i want to disconnect the hose that is connected to the bottom of the resivour(just cus its easiest to reach is all, no other reasons). connect two lengths of hose to the two open ends and run them into two buckets, one filled with clean Dexron III/mercon and one empty to catch the old stuff. then run the engine and let the PS pump cycle the old stuff out of the system whilst drawing the clean stuff in.

now i guess im just assuming that the PS pump is strong enough to suck ATF from a bucket, so can it??

and which direction does the power steering flow? this is kinda critical to putting the buckets in the right place lol. i'm guessing that the smaller tube line is on the intake side of the pump, and the bigger hose line is on the outbound side of the pump.
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Old Mar 21st, 2005, 12:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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do not use ATF, that is tranny fluid. Yes it does work but buy the power steerting fluid, they have the stuff for a reason. So please dont use ATF. Because i hate when i have to drain that shit out and put PS fluid in.
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Old Mar 21st, 2005, 12:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94SE-R_wi
do not use ATF, that is tranny fluid. Yes it does work but buy the power steerting fluid, they have the stuff for a reason. So please dont use ATF. Because i hate when i have to drain that shit out and put PS fluid in.
-Ben
uhm...the FSM says "reccomend fluid is Automatic Transmission Fluid type Dexron II or equivelent" what are you smoking?


so what about my method? good/bad? changes?
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Old Mar 21st, 2005, 12:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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1. Well if it says that then i am a moron, but they make power steering fluid for a reason.
2. I have seen your method work on auto tranny's, the only way that i have done it has been to take the lines of at the rack. But that can be tricky if you dont have a lift. And i am pretty sure that it can suck it through the lines. But i would also keep in mind that PS pumps do run under pretty high pressure so i dont know if it would work the best.
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Old Mar 21st, 2005, 02:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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you are SUPPOSED to use automatic transmission fluid in the power steering. that's what the car was built with. every nissan I've ever seen, every ford I've ever seen, and probably most japanese cars use ATF in the power steering. trust me, cos I've seen it happen, if you dump clear power steering fluid in there, it WILL leak. and I've also seen bearing problems result from it. when I bought my 94 sentra last year I had to flush the power steering fluid out with fresh ATF cos it was leaking, and lo and behold, it stopped.

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Old Mar 21st, 2005, 10:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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how did you flush it? with a similar method to the one i proposed?
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Old Mar 22nd, 2005, 02:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Well i am not going to get into a big fight about this, all i am saying is that PS fluid is out ther for a reason, i know honda for sure takes it cause they have a special fluid for it, as well as most GM's that i know of. i have never had a problem where i put the clear PS fluid in and it leaks. All i was trying to say was if it says to use PS fluid use it please.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2005, 02:42 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94SE-R_wi
Well i am not going to get into a big fight about this, all i am saying is that PS fluid is out ther for a reason, i know honda for sure takes it cause they have a special fluid for it, as well as most GM's that i know of. i have never had a problem where i put the clear PS fluid in and it leaks. All i was trying to say was if it says to use PS fluid use it please.
stay on topic god dang it!
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Old Mar 23rd, 2005, 09:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I posted up changing the power steering fluid in the GA section. They told me to look in my factory manual. This is what you should do also. They should have the procedure. Maybe you drain and fill, start it up and turn side to side to pump the bubbles out. I will look in my manual tonight. I am at work now
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Old Mar 23rd, 2005, 07:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Figure out what line is the return hose and dissconect it. Put that hose in a bucket and plug where it was connected. Disconnect the ignition coil and have a buddy crank the car for 10 seconds at a time (so you don't overheat the starter) Keep pouring new fluid into the resovoir, don't let it become empty. Your done when the fluid coming out of the hose is clean. Reconnect everything, Start your car and turn the wheel slowly from bump to bump, but don't hold it at ther stops. That will bleed the air out of your system and your all set.

As a side note they do make power steering fluid for a reason... and it's for cars that call for power steering fluid.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2005, 09:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The Pressure line will use a metal fitting that requires a wrench to remove at the reservoir.
The Return Lines use a simple clamp.
In the past, Ive used a Nozzle from an Airhose and set it to low pressure (like 35 PSI) and blew all the old crap out that way.
But for those without that ability, you can BLOW on the end of the Pressure line removed.. and it will come back through the return line. Its slow, but it works.
Also, Yep.. ATF Dexron Type II is factory but Type III has been the new standard since the early 1990s. That was at least since 93 that I know of.. I worked for Als Auto Supply back in may of 93, through 2000, and thats all that was ever available.
Honda uses a special fluid due to the rubber used in their Powersteering system hoses and seals.
DO NOT use the Honda version as it has different flow characteristics and is a waste of money ( It costs more). Its not the right stuff anyway.
Ive seen someone put ATF in a Honda system.. The Return line hose turns into a wet noodle.. Its actually kinda funny to see a hose saturated with powersteering fluid from the inside. LOL
Also, Ive found that a synthetic transfluid works quite well. (still rated Dexron II and III capable). the steering seems lighter and smoother.
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Old Mar 23rd, 2005, 11:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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so i shouldn't run the car at all and just use air to flush the sytem? wont the components get hurt during the refill period? or is it so short that it has no effect.

and i do have an air compressor, just no fanyc fittings. i used it to empty my tranny faster once, worked well.
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Old Mar 24th, 2005, 01:38 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Drain and Fill of Powersteering Fluid for Flushing.

No, just leave the engine off during the drain procedure.
The Power steering system needs fluid for lubrication, and though some fluid will come out the return for a moment or so the pump will quickly not have anymore pressure and it will no longer flow.. So there will be quite a bit of crappy fluid still left in there. So, to save time.. Dont bother running the engine.
No need for fancy connectors for your air nozzle.. The usual rubber type nozzle head does peachy.
Be aware that it WILL spray the old crap pretty good, so be careful not to get it in your eyes.
Once you clean it up as best you can, reconnect everything, (make sure you tighten your clamp, and dont overtighten your pressure side of your reservior! Get it snug.. Dont reef on it)!.
Slowly add fluid to the Reservior, and once you have added about a cup (8oz), start the truck and have a buddy turn the steering wheel lock to lock... (left to right and back again all the way).. Do it repeatedly, and continue adding fluid.
Its not a fast process, but be aware that its EZ to overfill.. So go easy, and take your time!

Once filled, Shut the rig down.. recheck the fluid level, and add more if needed to top off.
It is OK to have a small bit over, but if its way over, pull some of the fluid out with a turkey baster or some other suction device. Try to shoot for the Hot "full" mark. The Cap needs to be locked in place, then turned, pulled out and read immeditately for best results.
Be sure the Filter is in PLACE when you do this.. Its ok to remove during the "flushing" procedure.. But it adds "height" to the fluid level during fills, so you need it there.
Recheck for any leaks.
If you want to actually "fill and Flush", just do the above procedure twice..
Have fun man.
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Last edited by jemtec : Mar 24th, 2005 at 01:47 AM. Reason: add some details
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Old Mar 24th, 2005, 08:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I looked in the factory manual and it does not say anything about where to drain the fluid. I cannot believe it, it tells you how to bleed air out, but what good is that if there is no explanation on how to flush this fluid out!.

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Old Mar 24th, 2005, 07:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jemtec
No, just leave the engine off during the drain procedure.
The Power steering system needs fluid for lubrication, and though some fluid will come out the return for a moment or so the pump will quickly not have anymore pressure and it will no longer flow.. So there will be quite a bit of crappy fluid still left in there. So, to save time.. Dont bother running the engine.
No need for fancy connectors for your air nozzle.. The usual rubber type nozzle head does peachy.
Be aware that it WILL spray the old crap pretty good, so be careful not to get it in your eyes.
Once you clean it up as best you can, reconnect everything, (make sure you tighten your clamp, and dont overtighten your pressure side of your reservior! Get it snug.. Dont reef on it)!.
Slowly add fluid to the Reservior, and once you have added about a cup (8oz), start the truck and have a buddy turn the steering wheel lock to lock... (left to right and back again all the way).. Do it repeatedly, and continue adding fluid.
Its not a fast process, but be aware that its EZ to overfill.. So go easy, and take your time!

Once filled, Shut the rig down.. recheck the fluid level, and add more if needed to top off.
It is OK to have a small bit over, but if its way over, pull some of the fluid out with a turkey baster or some other suction device. Try to shoot for the Hot "full" mark. The Cap needs to be locked in place, then turned, pulled out and read immeditately for best results.
Be sure the Filter is in PLACE when you do this.. Its ok to remove during the "flushing" procedure.. But it adds "height" to the fluid level during fills, so you need it there.
Recheck for any leaks.
If you want to actually "fill and Flush", just do the above procedure twice..
Have fun man.
How does it save time by not running the engine? Instead of making a mess and blowing fluid all over the place let the car do the work for you, pull the ignition fuse, and crank it to flush the old fluid out. That way you'll get it ALL out. Just don't let the system empty out. Keep adding fluid. This was you only have to do it ONCE to flush it, and it's done right. C'mon work smart not hard. Look at my previous post if you don't under stand how to do it.
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