Just as a personal choice I would avoid "high mileage" rated oils, besides regular 10W30 types that don't specify the are improved for that purpose. There may be no proof to support this but with the detergents and additives to "condition/swell" rubber seals, as each company claims, I feel it may cause problems in the future. If you are to switch back to a regular crude based or even synthetic oil who is to predict how the old conditioned seals will perform.
Either this is cheap insurance to keep the engine better protected from leaks and oil burning by using a lower volatility/thicker oil so that it doesn't evaporation as readily from high heat or it's a quick fix to a more serious problem.
If you're not experiencing any oil loss from burning or leaks then I'd stick with the synthetic blend. On the other hand, you can always see what difference it does make, if anyway, assuming you are having oil related engine trouble.
Most any 10W30 oil is termed and/or approved for high mileage engines, those that started their life with 5W30 at least; Take Mobil 1 synthetic 10W30 for instance, it says this directly on the label.
Whether it be crude based, semi-synthetic/blend w/anti-wear properties or full synthetic, the oil viscosity, along with custom properties that vary among brands and specified types, is what will determine the marketing purpose and use of each. Like the article that I linked said:
SAE 30 weight oil specifications show the oil viscosity must be between 9.3 and 12.4 centistokes (higher numbers represent a thicker oil). Most oils on the market use additives to control oil viscosity in the 10.5 centistokes range...
...By using a premium base oil, Quaker State's Higher Mileage Engine oil has a higher viscosity in the 12.0 centistokes range. This thicker oil meets the 10W-30 specifications, but the higher viscosity helps protect engine parts, increases engine compression because of improved piston ring sealing, and reduces blow-by to the crankcase past the rings.
Synthetic or synthetic blend may help extend the life of an engine or allow it to run more efficient and smoother, even after switching oil types, i.e. non-snythetic or blend, but to assume all are made for higher mileage is misguided. As the article pointed out, it appears the difference is within the oil composition and viscosity tolerance range.
My other concern would be the effect a specifically rated "Higher Mileage" yet thicker 10W30 engine oil would have on any engine built with such low clearance spec's between parts like piston rings or crankshaft and rod bearings. I'm wary to try it myself and I'm unwilling to pay the extra cost for something I probably don't need. When you can get deals on Pennzoil or similar types at Wal-Mart for $4 CDN for a 3.78L, then I'm all over that, forget the fancy stuff.
To be honest I do seem to have a bit oil consumption going on so I guess I'll go with the high mileage from Penzoil. Any thoughts on the grade. Most of the oil they sell here is 20W50, 15W40 and maybe 10W30.
I can't say for certain but you may be hard pressed to get high mileage branded engine oil in 20W50/15W40 or 50 viscosity range. I would go with 10W30 myself but considering your location 15W40/15W50 may be better suited with the higher temperatures plus the fact you said you are experiencing oil loss. If you are using 5W30 now then I would switch to 10W30 to see if that makes a difference. Avoid 10W40 crude oil as the viscosity range is too wide resulting in a lower sheer resistance and reduced engine protection.
Hey Sanyo, I didn't start using Mobil 1 in my 93 XE until it had around 120,000 miles. I purchased my Sentra when it had 103K and I used Valvoline until then. In this discussion and others like it, some have said that the synthetic oil actually could help your gaskets become more pliable and therefore prevent leakage. Whether or not this occurs is not something I can personally backup. Upon first using Mobil 1, however, my engine ran smoother and seemed to idle much better as well. Overall, it just seemed like a good idea to switch to synthetic oil. I wish my car would have started on with synthetic from the factory, but I'm at 135K with few complaints. I'm never going to use anything but Mobil 1 in every other vehicle I own.
Aite thanks, looks like it's going in. Anyone else start using at high mileage?
I think I might be switching back to Castrol GTX this next oil change. I have been useing MAx life for about 6 oil changes now bought the car @ 180,000 and I think this engine is burning it. Or maybe it's just milage who knows but it won't hurt. In my other car I switched to Syntec from Mobil 1 and it uses even less oil.
What's the point in putting synthetic in a motor w/ 155k? I'll agree synthetic is better, but not worth the added cost, put your money into parts. And IMHO those high mileage oils are a gimmick. Just go with a higher viscosity name brand oil.
What's the point in putting synthetic in a motor w/ 155k?
Well, let's see...
For me, it's a matter of peace of mind. My '93 Sentra has 135K miles, and I have only been using Mobil 1 for the last 15K. The high mileage (and age) is exactly why I use it. I know my car is getting older, and I want to extend its life as long as possible. Mobil 1 isn't solely responsible for my engine's longevity, but it certainly helps*. Just because my car is old does not mean that I'm going to use Walmart oil to save money. Why would that make sense? If anything, I want to use the best products available to make sure that my aging engine still has some kick in its step.
*Disclaimer: Just for the record, good conventional oil, when changed often, is not going to hurt your car. I'm not anti-"normal oil".
Okay, I know enough has been said about synthetic oil, but here's a good way to look at it...
I purchase Mobil 1 in a 5 quart container for about $20, so that's $4 a quart. My previous conventional oil was somewhere around $1.50 per quart. Now, the GA16DE requires 3 3/8 quarts of oil, and for estimating purposes I'll round up to 3.5 quarts. On a per-quart basis, an oil change with Mobil 1 costs $14, whereas the conventional oil at $1.50 per quart adds up to $5.25. That's a difference of $8.75 per oil change (excluding filter costs).
So let's say your engine is slightly more efficient while using synthetic oil and is able to squeeze out 1/2 a mile more per gallon (from 30 miles per gallon to 30.5 mpg is about a 1.7% gain in fuel efficiency). Our car has a 13 gallon tank, and for an entire tank of gas, that would correspond to 6.5 more miles driven. Gas is hovering below $2 per gallon in my area, but at $2 a gallon, that would add up to $0.43 saved per 13 gallon period. I change my oil every 3,000 miles, but even if the efficiency gain is extremely small, the less money spent on fuel during those 3,000 miles almost makes up for the $8.75 more I'm spending once every 3,000 mile period*.
*To be exact, during a 3,000 mile period, improving from 30mpg to 30.5mpg would save (assuming $2 per gallon of gas) $3.38. That cuts the extra expense of synthetic oil down to $5.73.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.