automatic power

Jul 11th, 2002, 11:32 PM

Hi, nissan fans:

Im a owner of a 1994 sentra model E, with an automatic

transmision. I want to know how to inject power to this car, using

the automatic transmision. Thanks

rios · Jul 11th, 2002, 11:51 PM

um d o you mean using power from the tranny or to keep the auto tranny and upgrade the cars engine?

Jul 11th, 2002, 11:59 PM

I want to know how to improve the power of the motor, but using

the automatic transmission.

rios · Jul 12th, 2002, 12:33 AM

oh, ok then i understand dude! one question tho, does your car have a ga16de or a g16i? cause i can help you out with the ga16de more. i have a 99 ga16de auto.

Jul 12th, 2002, 12:38 AM

mi car has a ga16de motor....

rios · Jul 12th, 2002, 12:43 AM

ok. well, for starters, you can get a cold air intake(cai) from hotshot or place racing. there are also the pop chargers but you gain less power from those. if it rains alot where you live, i would suggest getting an air bypass valve for the cai in case it ingests watter into your engine. you can also get a header from hotshot,focuz or pacesetter. hotshots your better bet though. you can also get jwt cam gears and underive pulleys and an aftermarket exhaust and freer flowing catalytic converter. theres alos the hot shot turbo kit for ga16des but im not sure if its what your looking for at this moment. is this the first car you have modified?

Jul 12th, 2002, 12:59 AM

This is my only car, I taket out the stock filter box and install a

K&N filter, but no intake and I installed also a performance muffler

from 3Aracing, but is very noisy and now i have a Dynomax super

turbo performance muffler to install. Im planning to put a header

and change all the pipe to 2 1/4 . Here in Puerto Rico is very

hard to find headers and intakes for this cars, here the commons

are Hondas, Acuras and Mit. Technicas

dho · Jul 12th, 2002, 01:05 AM

You've got an automatic... You wont even get close to the same speed as a manual with bolt-ons unless you modify the torque converter. The torque converter will cost you $400 + a core (unless you ship yours) at Level 10 (sam). This is with a group deal discount. Now, with an upgraded torque converter you can specify a certain stall speed (3,200rpm) which allows you to launch off the line at that rpm rather than the 2,000 rpm right now. (you'll be able to burn your tires!!)

This stall converter can take off a couple seconds from your quarter mile times or even just street 0-60mph acceleration. In the 1/8 mile a 3,200 stall in my car lowered my time from well over 12 seconds down to 11.2 with intake and exhaust. With a header I should be doing 10.7 or better. With a stop watch, I ran a factory 0-60mph in 13.3 seconds. With a 3,200 stall, intake, and exhaust, I ran 0-60mph in 8.2 seconds and the car was gutted. Eric Adkins did a 10.7 in the 1/8 mile with autoX alignment and could have gotten a lower time with his automatic if he had perfect alignment for drag racing.

Once you do the stall converter or even right now, add a stacked plated transmission fluid cooler. They're usually black and have 2 adaptors for the hoses and look like heatsinks. (Dont' get the aluminum cheap fin ones.)

The labor to install a torque converter can be between $100-400. Or you could do it yourself if you know how to lower a transmission.

If you want to compare a header or any bolt-on they will only lower the 1/4 mile times by a couple tenths of a second per mod. Since you are starting, do the converter upgrade and then save up for the Hotshot turbo kit $3134 adds nearly 70whp. You'll save yourself a lot of money and you'll be very very quick. (Don't bother spending money for header/exhaust/intake if you're wanting turbo.) With the bolt ons you'll be able to gain 30whp.. which would you rather have?

The other alternative to turbo is NA with an added 50hp shot of nos. There was one sentra that did the 1/4mile in 14.3 with nos. I'm not saying you can do it easily but it can be done with a stock block.

The Stall converter will help with turbo by spooling it up and it will also help NA and NOS by getting the rpms higher so you can get into the powerband quicker which means double the HP and some extra TQ to the wheels off the line.

rios · Jul 12th, 2002, 01:07 AM

yeah, it was hard to find parts here in canada too dude:P well,i cn tell you 2 and a quretr for the piping is too big. stay at 2 inches with the size. who makes the header you found?

dho · Jul 12th, 2002, 01:14 AM

I agree, I ran 11.8 in the 1/8 mile with 2-1/4 crush bent exhaust and a bad intake. By going to the 2" I got my time down to 11.2.

My 60' ft time was lowered from 2.86 to 2.68.

I can't wait till I get my current converter tweaked and my hyperco springs so I don't have such a bad launch. Kinda sux to have your rear end of the car go down and the front go up... which leads into wheel spin. It also makes your time worse.

dho · Jul 12th, 2002, 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rios
yeah, it was hard to find parts here in canada too dude:P well,i cn tell you 2 and a quretr for the piping is too big. stay at 2 inches with the size. who makes the header you found?

ferreras, are you going NA, turbo, or NOS?

Here's an ideal amount of HP @ wheels from each of those options and the appropirate exhaust size and the approximate cost (without torque converter and without tests on an automatic):
NA = 120whp / 2" / $2498 (including exhaust)
NOS = 145whp / 2.25" / $3098 (including exhaust)
Turbo = 160whp / 3" / $4000 (not including exhaust)

You can always make all of those options put out more power but the GA16DE hasn't been put to those limits. I have heard of a 210whp turbo'd GA16DE that Chef drives. He's hoping to build a 300whp turbo'd GA16DE monster!

rios · Jul 12th, 2002, 01:29 AM

yes ferreras, you have to decide if you want to turbo your car or if you wanna keep it naturally aspirated. how mantyy clicks are you upto anyways?