Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Melbourne, Florida
That's strange. My girlfriend's '89 Ford Probe did the same thing when the MAF connector came loose. It would run perfectly fine, but if you hit a bump or stopped too suddenly, the engine would simply cut out; no sputtering or anything. From what I understand, your car won't run with the MAF plugged in after the engine has warmed up, so perhaps the MAF is the cause. Although, since it seems to be sensitive to temperature, perhaps there's another dead sensor somewhere...
There a few things that I've heard of that you can do to your MAF. The safest would be to clean it with an aerosol MAF cleaner. The next two are a little more risky.
Some people have reported improved performance, efficiency, or idle when they reground the MAF. It involves cutting one of the wires coming out of the MAF harness and wiring it to a separate location on the engine. The only downside is the lack of documentation for the procedure on GA16DE engines; there are plenty of write-ups for the SE-R though. For this reason, I haven't tried this trick because shorting the wrong wire can be a costly mistake.
Another option that I just recently read about is removing your MAF and opening it to expose the PCB inside. There are metal legs that come out of the board that go to the MAF connector. Over time, the solder joints on those legs cracks, making the connection to the MAF intermittent. According to the directions, you slather solder on them to make the connection strong again. Then you use some gasket or silicone to seal up the MAF housing and wait overnight to allow it to dry. Again, this is something I haven't done because I'm a wuss and don't know what I'm doing half the time.
I would recommend finding detailed instructions before attempting any of these.