3 Questions: Tail lights, Start-Up, Header

b13pnoysentra · Jan 4th, 2006, 05:43 PM

Question 1: My tail lights (normal lights not illuminated by braking) are still on even after I switch them off. Engine is off, switches are off, and key is off but the tail lights remain on. I pulled off the fuse for the taillamps and put them back on after a few secs and they finally turned off. Then today, I saw the same problem return after I parked the car. Tail lights still on!! Can anyone help with this problem?

P.S. This is for a 94 Dodge Caravan. I know it's not a B13 but I need mechanical/electrical advice.

Question 2: I just replaced my spark plugs (forgot to gap them but no misfiring and car runs good), spark wires, and distributor cap (rotor won't come off). I thought this would fix my starting problems. This is an old problem that I thought I had fixed with a new fuel filter as well. At first, I thought it was a vacuum leak in the aftermarket intake because it hisses really loud, but that seems to work okay (hissing comes from filter vacuum). When the engine is really cold in the mornings, it would die right after start up. I pumped the gas a lil bit after starting and this seemed to solve the problem. I'm just annoyed that I have to do the gas pumping thing to keep my car from dying in the mornings 50% of the time. Can anyone help with this?

Question 3: Does anyone know where I can find a write up for a header install on a B13 with a GA16DE? I searched but the only threads I could find were about "Hotshot is the only way to GO" vs. "OBX and PaceSetter ARE SHIT" kind of stuff. I dont' know what brand my header is but all I know is its for a 1.6L Sentra/200sx 91-99 and its a 4-2-1 header with a metal gasket. It has no included downpipe. It also has a hole on the third tube from the left in the front (i'm guessing this is for the o2 sensor) and another hole (like a really small pipe) sticking out from the same tube but instead located on the side of this tube 3. Can anyone provide me a guide for installing this header. I know its not a hotshot but do you think these intstructions will work as well? Hotshot Performance

dfresh06 · Jan 4th, 2006, 07:00 PM

For question number two...i have the same problem

79kz400 · Jan 5th, 2006, 12:06 AM

#2 = Clean your IACV ( Idle air control valve ) Search on this topic as there are many posts. Please report your findings for this forum's search base. I like to know if it worked as i am having idle problems that this did not completely solve.

b13pnoysentra · Jan 5th, 2006, 05:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79kz400

#2 = Clean your IACV ( Idle air control valve ) Search on this topic as there are many posts. Please report your findings for this forum's search base. I like to know if it worked as i am having idle problems that this did not completely solve.

Thanks, I found this by Nostrodamus

All of you need to clean your IAC valve. Idol air control valve.
When you start your car does it rev up, then drop below idol quickly, then hesitates and sounds like its going to die. Sometimes going back to idol, and others stalling?
Then cleaning you IAC valve will cure this problem.
This is the valve:

If your inner cylinder is not green, you need to clean it. The inner barrel turns and vents air into your throttle body. Hence the name Idol Air Coltrol valve.
When carbon and sutt build up on the barrels, it doesnt want to open up as easily. Has a tendency to get stuck.
Go ahead and get a can of carb cleaner, and some q-tips.
Remove the two screws that holds the IAC onto the throttle body. You are going to have to use a large headed screwdriver. If not you will strip the screws.
Remove the eclectrical plug. Set it to the side.
Get your carb cleaner.Spray it onto the barrels, and wipe the grime away with your q-tip.
There is a thin paper gasket, if you are carfull enough you will not have to replace it.
Slap the valve back in its home, screw it down, replace elictrical plug.
Get into your car, start it up, and presto, problem solved.

b13pnoysentra · Jan 5th, 2006, 07:59 AM

The pictures shown in the guide seem to be from a newer GA16DE model. Where would the IACV valve be located in a 94 GA? Is it the one the TPS sensor is connecting to in the throttle body?

79kz400 · Jan 5th, 2006, 12:17 PM

K download the FSM's from this page. If you like to work on your car you need these. Goto Service volume 1, page EF & EC 200 and a detailed view of the part on EF & EC 212. They are calling it the FICD solenoid valve. My '92 has a purple plastic connector attached to it. The shape is very distinctive.

b13pnoysentra · Jan 5th, 2006, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 79kz400

K download the FSM's from this page. If you like to work on your car you need these. Goto Service volume 1, page EF & EC 200 and a detailed view of the part on EF & EC 212. They are calling it the FICD solenoid valve. My '92 has a purple plastic connector attached to it. The shape is very distinctive.

Okay, what do I do with this valve? It looks way different from what Nostradamus was holding. I removed what I thought was the IACV and all that came out was the plastic thing with a round metal on the end it. It's not like the newer sentra's GA where the valve can be separated from the throttle body.

Nevermind I found a link: FICD Solenoid Valve (IACV) for B13 GA

b13pnoysentra · Jan 5th, 2006, 02:17 PM

Can anyone help with question 1 or 3?

b13pnoysentra · Jan 6th, 2006, 04:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b13pnoysentra

Okay, what do I do with this valve? It looks way different from what Nostradamus was holding. I removed what I thought was the IACV and all that came out was the plastic thing with a round metal on the end it. It's not like the newer sentra's GA where the valve can be separated from the throttle body.

Nevermind I found a link: FICD Solenoid Valve (IACV) for B13 GA

I cleaned out the springs and inside of the thing with throttle body cleaner and some q-tips.Then I innstalled the FICD back in the ECCS throttle body.The car started fine. I'm only curious about why it still stalls.

I figured this out while testing the starting on the car. If I turn ignition on for the "first" time (like in the mornings), the car will rev up, drop down then go to warming up in 800 rpm to normal idle at 600. A few seconds later, I decide to turn the ignition off again. Then after a second of waiting I start the car once again. This is when it stalls after the engine starts. I quickly tried it a third time and it stalled again. A fourth and it stalled again (During procedures, I start in neutral with foot holding clutch). These are the times when I have to pump my gas to keep the engine alive. Aren't cars supposed to be able to start again with no problem once they are turned off even after a few seconds of running?
OR
Is it that my car is too old that it can't handle being turned on and off when its cold?
OR
Is this an alternator, battery, starter problem?

b13pnoysentra · Jan 11th, 2006, 03:58 AM

Problem is fully fixed. I bought a Deustch brand aftermarket PCV valve. Starting and stalling the car is not a problem anymore.

For anyone needing future reference, the PCV valve goes from the ECCS throttle body to the top left side engine valve cover. Theres a black hose connecting the engine to the ECCS. Just use pliers to open up the pinchers and pull out th black hose from the end of the engine valve cover. Use a wrench (5/8 i think) to unscrew the stock PCV valve. Be careful not to strip the thread. When its loose enough to take out by hand, do so. Replace the old one with the new PCV valve by hand and screw it in slowly. Use wrench to tighten to a reasonable stiffness and reconnect the rubber hose.

79kz400 · Jan 12th, 2006, 11:19 PM

Glad you got it

ekizz · Jan 16th, 2006, 05:57 AM

well i installed the obx header with me and my buddy and its pretty straightforward...

you spray wd-40 on the old bolts to the header and downpipe, for the bolts underneath the car [downpipe] theyre going to be real hard to take off with the wrench, so just use a lot of muscle. the one on tops is easy. and when you fit in the header , do it from the top and kind of wiggle it in at an angle. be careful, because you can damage the radiator. i dont remember if i moved one of the fans or not, but try doing that anyways. it fits. and when installing the header, i think that two of the screws will not fit in. but do not worry tighten the rest. and after you are done, wipe the header down from any dirty fingermarks or oil (or it will burn off all the stuff itself and smell really bad)

if you need any more help you can im me at : lilkrnxstylez, or email me at ekizzle@gmail.com

b13pnoysentra · Jan 16th, 2006, 09:40 PM

yeah I'll ask you bout it when I get my header. If it's obx from ebay, I'll try your suggestions. And about the O2 sensor, it bolts into the front with no problems? And that other small pipe coming in from the right side of the stock manifold, what is that and does it bolt on the to header as well?

ekizz · Jan 18th, 2006, 04:05 PM

everyone says the obx header has fittment problems, but the one i got off ebay has given me no problems. the o2 sensor fits on perfectly, and the other hole fits the pipe as well. the header is also got really thick flanges, and i doubt it will ever crack