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Go Back   NissanForums.com :: Nissan Forum > Nissan Models > Sentra, Pulsar, NX, B14 200SX > B11/B12/KN13 82-90 chassis
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B11/B12/KN13 82-90 chassis B11 (1982-1985 Sentra), B12 (1986-1990 Sentra), and Pulsar

       
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Old Apr 3rd, 2006, 12:26 PM   #16 (permalink)
bob89sentra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikewiebe1987
well i replaced the cable, which was a bitch, haynes neglets the 87's because u need to take the whole dash off for proper access , and even i had to pry on some heat ducting to slip the cable on and off, maybe it was just mine, anyways it feels tightn ow but if i drive hard itl start to slip and stall, i think i just need to adjust it properly now, which seems to be my difficulty,
also does the adjustment nut need to be pretty tight because it SEEMS like my cable looses tension if i drive hard on it after adjusting it, but im scared to overtighten it because i bought a napa clutch cable with a rubber adjustment knob that if i tighen too tight may damage the rubber or actually give it more play who knows

ps u also need to pull the steering wheel to properly take out the dash, didnt' have time to figure it out or go get a puller so i trimmed my dash underneath the guage cluster so it slips over but will be covered when i reassemble the dash
Oh yea it is a B*%#H to get to. I did the prying of the heater duct, and got it on. The tension on the cable, should be as follows.
Drive the car a couple miles to warm it up (the clutch)
Turn engine off, pop hood, tighten the cable untill the arm starts to move, and there is no slack in the cable.
Next losen the cable untill there just starts to be slack, and go another 1/2 - 3/4 turn, and lock it down. The cable should be just loose enough to allow the clutch release arm to have a small amount of lash.
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Old Apr 4th, 2006, 10:47 AM   #17 (permalink)
mikewiebe1987
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wow, i so am not liking clutches right now
with excavating equipment its a rubberflywheel attatched toa pump O_o
so yeah ill try adjusting it some more tonight but shit, is it possible i burnt out the clutch when it was slipping because i just can't seem to get the adjustment right, right now, so close to just paying for a professional adjustment
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Old Apr 5th, 2006, 06:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
mikewiebe1987
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man this clutch is really bugging me, by no slack meaning the actually cable should be taught? because the adjustment knob is getting hard to turn, i can barelyturn it by hand but if i go and grab the bare cable and pull i can feel a bit of slack, now ive gone to extreme loose and taughtness and it seems to slip the same, really frustrating. so the actual cable should be taught right? maybe its jsut because ive never adjusted a clutch like this before
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Old Apr 6th, 2006, 11:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
bob89sentra
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The cable should be slightly loose, so there isn't pressure on the throw out bearing all the time.
If the clutch slips all the time now you probbaly have something else wrong. It could be oil leaking onto the clutch, but not likely. I would put money on either a worn out clutch, or bent fingers on the pressure plate causing it to not release fully every time.
Either way you might end up dropping the transmission to find the problem.
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Old Apr 6th, 2006, 01:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
mikewiebe1987
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yeah im really hoping those few trips where it ran really bad didn't wear it out , im gonna see if i can return the napa cable and get an oem one because this one seems to bind and its shorter than the other one by a few inches and its stiffer so routing it around the various devices was tricky and the hardest curve is probably like....i dunno 100degrees, enough to make you take a second look, i wonder how much oem is gonna cost , think i could return an oem product?
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Old Apr 6th, 2006, 09:11 PM   #21 (permalink)
mikewiebe1987
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aw man i figured out what it was, the cheeap napa cable basically had ( as the adjustment knob) an identical nut from the other end of the adjuster clamp, with a rubber fixture , i watched carefully as my buddy applied torque and itslipped, hen ever even felt it, so ii grabbed my old cable took the metal knob of that swapped it with the new cable and finally, solid adjustment it was alright first off so i drove it a bit, loosened it and i got my baby back, so i dunno if the napa will wear out or what but yeah those rubber knobs are impossible to guage, maybe just for me , oh well another oem fix
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Old Apr 7th, 2006, 02:19 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I had all those same symptoms, had it looked at proffesionally and the entire clutch geometry was off, tehy replaced the cable cause mine was stretched really bad. Fixed all the problems, however its still a bitch to get it in 1st or revers when its cold, but i guess thats not really fixable.
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Old Apr 7th, 2006, 08:46 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brycestejskal
I had all those same symptoms, had it looked at proffesionally and the entire clutch geometry was off, tehy replaced the cable cause mine was stretched really bad. Fixed all the problems, however its still a bitch to get it in 1st or revers when its cold, but i guess thats not really fixable.
New syncros will help get into first, and a lighter gear oil will improve mileage, and ease of shifting when the transmission is cold in general.
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Old Apr 7th, 2006, 11:08 AM   #24 (permalink)
mikewiebe1987
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yupgear oils magic somtimes day2 mines runnin tight still but it feels a little not underpowered but dragging,i was thinking it could be my axles / bearings since they're both going but i drained my fluid put in new and it spooled up much quicker, only noticable in first and second but still
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