I want to how hard it is to replace the clutch disk? ( for a guy like me with no experience)
Do i have to take out the two left and right drive axels? or only the left axel drive?
Any easy tips on how to dismount the clutch housing?
thank you...
Replacing the clutch is easy. Removing the tranny and putting it back in is a PITA.
You only have one left axle. But it has to come out along with the other one on the right. OK, I'll stop being a smartass.
The only tip as far as making it easy would be to get a set of air tools.
If you don't have any experience then you probly don't have the tools. Some jobs are better left up to the pros. Figure a clutch set will run about 99.99 (CSK). My guess is Clutch Doctors could put it in for about $250 and it's guaranteed for as long as you own the car. AND you bring it in every 6 months for a checkup/adjustment - free. AND you bring them the car and it's done in 4 hrs. If you still want to do it yourself, search the forum, come back and we can step you through most of it. It's mostly just takes a lot of broken knuckles and a colorfull vocabulary.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
Getting the tranny out is easy; Getting it back in can be a PITA. I used to use a floor jack to put 'em back in, but now I sling a chain around the clutch cable bracket and cherry-pick it up. The biggest issues you'll have are getting the right angle and making sure the splines line up.
Forgive me if I seem mundane, but I worked on my Pulsar until 3am this morning. New engine, new tranny, new clutch. This car's gonna scream by day's end (OK, OK...when the 2,000-mile break-in's done...happy? LOL)!
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Later, taters; Off to a better place. Catch me there!
easiest way to do it, if its on a lift anyhow, is get another guy pick up the sob and throw it in there the alinging dowels/pins whatever you want call them and the input shaft will keep it from falling while you put in a bolt.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
no its not hard ... take the flywheel off youll see it .. and youll see it isnt hard ... and no the ring gear isnt a 2 pcs thing. if you want to replace it i suggest changing flywheel or do with the heating torch, get it off and torch another new one to put it back there ... i guess its the only way... but if the car was starting well, i woulnt mind with half the teeth grinded
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Crazy !
Sentra Sport Coupe 87 Turbo
14.850@97.454mph
H&R Spring, 15psi, TMIC, 370cc, Nismo mount and pulley, Almasi tuned ecu...
I think the rear main bearing seal is bad--- is this hard to replace?
Not at all. As long as you've gone this far, it's cheap insurance to replace it.
You will have to drop the oil pan to do it, however, so get a pan gasket set, too. 3 10mm bolts hold the seal holder in place; Loosen 'em and pop the retainer and seal off. Suspend the retainer edges between two little blocks of wood and tap the old seal out with a hammer and punch. Place the retainer, bore-side-up, flat on the bench and gently tap it in with the hammer, evenly all around. Don't cock the seal in the bore excessively, and drive it home firmly and evenly all around. Lube the lip real well with any ol' grease, as long as it's clean grease, wiggle-twist the seal/retainer in place with a new gasket (It should come with the seal), snug-torque the 10mm bolts in place, install the pan and gasket, and ergo!
__________________
Later, taters; Off to a better place. Catch me there!
I don't think it is absolutely necessary, but I would never go through all of the trouble of putting a clutch in without having it done myself. I would imagine depending on how uneven the face of the flywheel is, it could cause some chatter and possibly some long term wear issues on the new disk. If your going that far, I would also replace the rear main seal. If that goes bad, you'll be doing your clutch all over again.....
I have done 3 or 4 clutches myself and have never had to do it agin on the same vehicle, but I have always used all new parts and always had the flywheel resurfaced.
is it recommended or ABSOLUTELY necessary that the flywheel be resurfaced after pulling the transmission/clutch plate?
depends on the condition. General rule of thumb is to resurface it. BUT, if it is not discolored, is still perfectly flat, no ridges or bumps...then you can get away with not surfacing it. But from personal experience...the one clutch that i did not resurface now does the bucking bronco in reverse and no one knows the cause except that it has to be clutch related...but that was on a Toyota and in hindsight with their quality standards i should have resurfaced it no matter what.
__________________ Student at UTI Avondale 2nd place SkillsUSA/VICA WA State Automotive Maintenence '04 had an 87 pulsar...still planning CA20DET
1970 Chevy BelAir 350V8 300hp...soon to get M21
I'm not sure with your engine but when I had my oil pan gasket done I asked the guy at the auto parts store if the felpro was rubber or cork and it was cork, also (again not sure on your engine) but on mine the GA16i, nissan recommends ( and uses) liquid gasket material for the oil pan , not a pre-made gasket. the guy that did mine used permatex ultra grey, The dealer sells there own for like $32 a tube or permatex ultra grey for $12, autoparts should have it for about $5
Actually I didn't used the cork gasket... I used the grey permatex and the two rubber seals made by Felpro. Also the rear main seal kit that I bought from autozone is actually a NOK brand [ not felpro, but it is packaged by FELPRO] which is made in Japan, the same brand used by NISSAN as an OEM.
Hey guys... I just finished assembling everything I got one problem I forgot terminal orientations of the starter motor. I want to know which one is for positive terminal and the negative terminal of the starter when viewing it from the transmission side.
the alinging dowels/pins whatever you want call them and the input shaft will keep it from falling while you put in a bolt.
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