B11: Quick clutch replacement

toygeek · Dec 16th, 2003, 01:50 PM

Well my clutch started slipping on my and its getting worse. I figure I have 2 months left on it, TOPS. Right now my Land Cruiser is in the garage taking up the whole thing so garaging my car isn't an option right now to do the clutch.

What's the quickest way to get it done? Remove CV on the driver side, unblolt tranny and pull it back? I need to just get it out of the way so I can put in a disk. I'm not even doing pressure plate, flywheel, bearings, as those were done earlier this year. I just burned up the disk prematurely from having to slip the clutch alot when the engine was barely running. I have mech experience, and decent tools, and I'm not afraid to dig into it but I would like to know a good procedure. YES I have the haynes manual but I'm looking for shortcuts here. I have to have the car driving in the same day, as its my family car right now.

Suggestions, anyone?

Thanks!

Myetball · Dec 16th, 2003, 02:02 PM

I don't know if there is enough clearance to just pull back the tranny and replace the disk. Without removing the pass. side axle you'd have to fart around with getting that lined up at the same time as the input shaft to disk. Sounds like a six handed job. You can do it in a day, pull the axles, drop the tranny, do the switch, and put it all together.

toygeek · Dec 16th, 2003, 03:08 PM

Okay that sounds reasonable. How high do you have to get the car in order to pull the tranny? BTW I could get help with the other CV, to get it all lined up. I'm not necessarily working alone

Lazarus_023 · Dec 16th, 2003, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toygeek

Well my clutch started slipping on my and its getting worse. I figure I have 2 months left on it, TOPS. Right now my Land Cruiser is in the garage taking up the whole thing so garaging my car isn't an option right now to do the clutch.

What's the quickest way to get it done? Remove CV on the driver side, unblolt tranny and pull it back? I need to just get it out of the way so I can put in a disk. I'm not even doing pressure plate, flywheel, bearings, as those were done earlier this year. I just burned up the disk prematurely from having to slip the clutch alot when the engine was barely running. I have mech experience, and decent tools, and I'm not afraid to dig into it but I would like to know a good procedure. YES I have the haynes manual but I'm looking for shortcuts here. I have to have the car driving in the same day, as its my family car right now.

Suggestions, anyone?

Thanks!

my method (had it down to a 2-hour clutch change).

1) unbolt calipers from knuckles and hang out of the way.
2) unbolt knuckles from struts.
3) pry inner cv joints loose from trans (do not try to remove completely yet!)
4) pull back knuckles (pivoting on tie rod and ball joint) and monkey with the steering until you have enought play to pull the cv from trans. hang them out of the way.
5) remove starter, shift linkage and speedo cable.
6) support the engine with a jack under the oil pan.
7) unbolt trans and mounts.
8) holding the trans through the starter hole, pull away from the engine (may take some shaking/jerking, so make sure your car is securely supported), and lower to floor (you should have pretty good leverage with your belly against the fender... the trans weighs about 85 lbs, IIRC, so be sure ou can lift it...)
9) change clutch.
10) reinstall trans in reverse order, make sure you add gear oil.

DETAILS: catch gear oil with drain pan, may need an alignment after servicing, etc. be sure you know what you're doing.

Myetball · Dec 16th, 2003, 05:39 PM

Pretty much everything Laz said. I only do a couple things different. I use a floor jack under the tranny. After I disconnect it, I just lower it and roll it out. Helps alot when trying to get everything lined up for the install too. I'm too short to get ahold of the tranny from the top with the car on stands. Maybe if I was 7 feet tall.

Unless you rotate the tie-rod ends you won't need an alignment. B11's have no cast or camber adjustment, only toe-in/out.

Lazarus_023 · Dec 16th, 2003, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myetball

Unless you rotate the tie-rod ends you won't need an alignment. B11's have no cast or camber adjustment, only toe-in/out.

if the holes in the struts are larger than the bolts that attach them to the knuckles, you'll be able to change your caster. i don't know about stock struts, but most of the aftermarket struts have one hole larger for alignment.