Originally posted by xXB12RacerXx Wow, thanks hybrid, all great stuff really. I got most of this but I am however a little concerned and confused with the whole linkage thing.
Is it possible though, to use the entire B13 linkage, yolk, and shift lever?
Thanks!
no.
You will either have to lengthen the the b12 unit like john did. Or cut the ends off the b13 linkages with a good amount of linkage still on it. Then cut the ends of the b12 linkage and weld the b13 ends to the b12 linkage.
b12 linkage ==========}CUT{===O <----bushing that fits to trani
keep bolded portion (left side)
Originally posted by xXB12RacerXx What happens with the heater core? is that switched out or do I keep my old one?
Thanks!
you keep yours in place. Later if you are lucky and have room between the intake manifold and the fire wall, you will connect the coolent lines off the sr20 to the heater core ports in the fire wall.
Originally posted by xXB12RacerXx I read about the p/s elim. kit...looks good but way pricey what is the other way of taking it off, and what do i do about belts?
Thanks!
If you remove the guts to the ps pump, (the parts that make it pump), the pump will just become an idler pulley. The belt will still be on there and the pulley will still spin, it just wont push any fluid. You will have to weld one end closed and i believe bolt the other end. Be sure to put some fluid in there before closing it up.
Smog pump? Are you talking about EGR? If so, leave it alone. It doesn't reduce horsepower and is environmentally friendly. As far as the power steering pump goes. It doesn't need fluid. I pulled the guts out of it, and the pulley bearing is self contained. In essence it is an idler pulley now. Just be sure and remove the little fan blade lookin thing from inside. Mine has been this way for years with no ill effects.
As for the B12 crossmember, to do it my way still requires a welder. you do not use the rear B12 crossmember mount. IIRC, I had to cut part of it off. You want to keep the two studs that are there for the rear, the rest goes bye bye. Center the Sr20 over the crossmember with the SR20 tranny mount and bracket attatched. Cut some metal (I used square channel tubing) and tack weld one side to the mount and the other side to the crossmember. Remove the crossmember and weld it entirely and brace it where you see fit. This allows easy removal of the corssmember with 3 bolts and 2 nuts. The two on the front, the two on the back and the one holding the mount to the tranny.
John
__________________
B12 w/ JDM SR20DE 424 whp 328 ft. lbs. 2440 lbs w/ a full tank.
B14 w/ VE 244 whp 228 ft. lbs
"You might be a king or a little street sweeper, but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper."
Last edited by Nismodriver : Sep 16th, 2003 at 10:48 PM.
Reguarding the radiator. I never thought to investigate the diesel. I may have to look into that.
You don't want to use the E-15 radiator as the inlet/outlet are reversed in position. You would have to snake hoses all over to get it right. Instead you can get the one for the CA pulsar and the inlets/outlets are in the proper location and are the same size as the SR20. If you use the GA radiator, you will have to step down the radiator hose from the size of the SR outlets to the radiator outlets.
John
__________________
B12 w/ JDM SR20DE 424 whp 328 ft. lbs. 2440 lbs w/ a full tank.
B14 w/ VE 244 whp 228 ft. lbs
"You might be a king or a little street sweeper, but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper."
I currently have the CA radiator with a 14" and a 12" slim fan and it seems to keep everythig pretty cool. It does get up to about 210* after numerous back to back runs, though. I'm gonna have to look into the diesel radiator.
John
__________________
B12 w/ JDM SR20DE 424 whp 328 ft. lbs. 2440 lbs w/ a full tank.
B14 w/ VE 244 whp 228 ft. lbs
"You might be a king or a little street sweeper, but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper."
Originally posted by Nismodriver I currently have the CA radiator with a 14" and a 12" slim fan and it seems to keep everythig pretty cool. It does get up to about 210* after numerous back to back runs, though. I'm gonna have to look into the diesel radiator.
John
John,
those temperatures are going to give you trouble at the convention road course. Are you using the UR pulleys and some redline water wetter? Also try hooking the fan up to a switch and running it full time when you are on the track.
Originally posted by Nismodriver Why did you remove the wiring harness? You are making ALOT more work for yourself. All you need is the Engine harness for the SR. You will need to tie into 6-7 wires to start the car. Put the harness back. Feed the SR harness through and do a little wiring.
This is a good idea and pretty much the plan now. What exactly do I need to do once I have the B12's main harness back in?
Originally posted by hybrid DET ah, the great electrical secret right John? It's what seperates the men from the boys.
Kinda what I was thinkin ;o). It's fairly straight up, if you sit downa nd think about what the engine needs to operate. The wires can be determined with a haynes and Chilton's. It just takes a little investigation.
If you are going to do the swap, you really need to be aware of exactly what's going on. I drove my car daily and on numerous road trips for 2 years. There were instances however, if I had not known exactly what wire went where, what voltage was supposed to be there, or how to check it, I would have been in BIG trouble. These are things you need to live and breath, prior to having faith in your swap reliability. If someone just hands it to you, you've gained nothing.
John
__________________
B12 w/ JDM SR20DE 424 whp 328 ft. lbs. 2440 lbs w/ a full tank.
B14 w/ VE 244 whp 228 ft. lbs
"You might be a king or a little street sweeper, but sooner or later, you dance with the Reaper."
Since the last time I typed I've been working on a way to get 4-wheel disc setup on the B12 before the sr20 was droped in with mere garage mechanics.
So heres the scoop.
I started off by removing the entire rear suspension/brake system off the SE-R parts car, struts, control arms, sway bars, rotaros, calipers. I had to dislocate the E-brake line at the knuckle too.
So I left the entire SE-R suspension/brake setup intact, and pulled it out and set it aside. I than removed the entire B12 suspension/brake system. Struts, Control arms, Drums, and KN13 Sway bars.
Since where the e-brake plugs into the B12's rear drums is different than the SE-R's rear disc setup I will have swap out the e-brake lines at the y-section where the lines branch out and head towards the left and right rear brakes.
I also had to take the top plate off the SE-R's struts and replace them with the B12's old strut plates. (I am sure it may be possible to just change out the B12's struts onto the SE-R's knuckle, but I personally wanted all SE-R suspension.)
So the control arms, and stuts bolted right up and now the next step is to get brakets made for the leading arms and the rear sway bar. This is already lined up to happen as soon as the sr20 is in place.
The next step is to swap out the SE-R's master cylinder and brake boster and e-brake line. After that I will work on droping the se-r's X-member, Linkage and wire syetem, along with working on a super cool retro idea that I'm hoping will work.
Anyways, that's all for now. I'll check back soon and keep you all updated on my progress.
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