No offense, but start with a manual. The people who've been there can help with specific problems you run into, but at least start by picking up and carefully reading a decent manual (Haynes, Chiltons, Nissan shop manual, etc.). That will give you step by step directions for what you need to do.
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84 Ford Bronco II 2.8
86 Ford Bronco II 2.9
86 Nissan Pulsar w/ Weber and CA distributor (gone, but not forgotten)
Also, do a search. Not to long ago I posted the step-by-step instructions.
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187-A Extended Bowery Street__________22 Potomac Lane
Frostburg, MD 21532__________________Sayville, NY 11782 (631) 563-1292
Originally posted by fastpakr No offense, but start with a manual. The people who've been there can help with specific problems you run into, but at least start by picking up and carefully reading a decent manual (Haynes, Chiltons, Nissan shop manual, etc.). That will give you step by step directions for what you need to do.
i have one, but i didnt see anything about it, haynes suck! i shouldve bought a chilton
The Haynes book has no info on pulling the axle? If it's required for pulling the engine, start there and see where the book sends you. It really should be in there.
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84 Ford Bronco II 2.8
86 Ford Bronco II 2.9
86 Nissan Pulsar w/ Weber and CA distributor (gone, but not forgotten)
Originally posted by fastpakr The Haynes book has no info on pulling the axle? If it's required for pulling the engine, start there and see where the book sends you. It really should be in there.
Originally posted by MyClunkyAss12er take them and pull and twist them til they pop out
NO, NO, NO!!!!!! If you do that you will pop the inner CV out of the Actual joint...... And the Haynes does cover it.... You just have to look in the right place... There is a SAFE spot on the Axel flanges to use a Prybar and POP them out...
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Holy shit...I didn't realize is was you asking Greg. I assumed it was a noob. If I had the money I'd buy a plane ticket and fly out there and give you a boot to the head.
Okay, here goes.
-Take wheels off
-Remove Calipers
-Remove rotors
-Take axle nuts off
-Disconnect strut from steering knuckle (Optional: remove steering knuckle from ball joint)
-Pull out on steering knuckle slightly while hammering on end of axle. If you plan on reusing the axle make sure you don't ruin it during this part.
-Axle should break loose then you can pull out farther on knuckle while pushing the axle out. You'll have to bend axle at the outer cv and maybe twist a little on the knuckle to get it out. It'll be a tight squeeze but there is just enough clearance if you push/pull/twist/grunt/cuss your way through it.
-After axles are out of knuckles then remove from tranny.
If you have a tire iron with a flat end use that on the axle. There should be a groove to slip the flat end in to pry them out if you can't get it between the inner cv housing and the tranny. They're locked in there good sometimes...I've had to have someone hold the tire iron while I kick on it. Other times they come out real easy.
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187-A Extended Bowery Street__________22 Potomac Lane
Frostburg, MD 21532__________________Sayville, NY 11782 (631) 563-1292
To pull cv shaft out first loosen your lug nuts, safely jack the car up(use jack stands to securely make sure it won't slip and fall), remove your tire, in the middle of your hub assembly there is a nut with a cotter pin, remove the cotter pin, if you have access to a air gun use a 30mm or 32mm axle nut socket to remove the nut. If you don't have access to a air gun, before you jack the car up or even take the tire off, have the car on the ground, you should be able to see the cotter pin and axle nut. Remove the cotter pin and using a breaker bar with the axle nut socket loosen the nut. Anyway, after the nut is out take some WD-40 and spray around the splines on the cv shaft. Now, there are 2 ways to remove the shaft: My way to to remove both strut nut and bolt, take a hammer and gently tap the strut to release it from the spindle. Take a hammer and tap on the shaft where the axle nut was to pop it out of the spindle. You might have to turn the spindle to clear it/get it out. Once that is done, crawl underneath to where the shaft enters the transaxle. Take a long screwdriver or pry bar and position it between the trans and cv joint and pop it out. The other way is to not take the bolts out of the strut and try to remove the lower balljoint nut and then try to seperate the lower balljoint from the spindle, which I believe is to hard. If the strut are stock you don't have to worry about the alignment because it won't have caster adjustment or is it camber adjustment. Assembly is pretty much the same. I hope this helps.
Rocky
P.S. you don't really need to remove the outter tie rod end from the spindle. It usually takes me about 30 min. at work on a lift to pull a cv shaft and replace it on a b12. Also, no need to remove the rotor or caliper.
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1987 B12 possible JDM RRC swap - Currently has a blown engine
1991 B13 Se-r - JDM swap - finished 12-7-03
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Last edited by RockyB : Aug 12th, 2003 at 06:54 PM.
Greg, call me. I changed all that w/out a manual. Hell I still aint got one lol. I got the 32mm socket and a bunch of things they don't tell ya in the book. I do it RockyB style mostly. Tie your caliper onto the strut spring to keep out of the way (or were you going to upgrade?) If the axle wont come out of the knuckle, pull the axle out w/knuckle and tap it on the cement. You'll want to replace all your bushings and ball joints anyway.
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