How did you get the injectors to fire in the right sequence? That is the only issue I can't seem to work out in my head on how it all works together.
I have it firing all 4 every time, that is how the majority of the engines I have seen work. Even though they have an independent wire for each injector from the computer the computer usually just fires all 4 at the same time.
I think I have fixed the TPS problem, I made an adapter for the old one so I can use it on the MPFI throttle body. I will see when I get home how well it works.
I hope this will conclude the problems with the sensors and wiring.
I have it firing all 4 every time, that is how the majority of the engines I have seen work. Even though they have an independent wire for each injector from the computer the computer usually just fires all 4 at the same time.
I think I have fixed the TPS problem, I made an adapter for the old one so I can use it on the MPFI throttle body. I will see when I get home how well it works.
I hope this will conclude the problems with the sensors and wiring.
depends how old the system is. newer ones may have sequential injection. but i think you're right about the B13 GA16DE injectors firing at the same time
let us know how the adapter works man.
got a question, what did you make the gasket out of, or did you use a GA16i gasket, liquid gasket, or just some RTV?
I think the debugging is drawing closer to a finish!
Ok I got the TPS/Throttle switch from the TBI manifold adapted to the MPFI manifold. I can get it to idle now, and the throttle response is much smoother. After some time of running the engine to get an idea of it's quirks (it still has a few that bother me) I decided to pull the codes from the computer to see if it noticed any issues. I am getting a code 12, which by my trusty Haynes manual says it is the MAF. I will be testing the MAF with a volt meter, and putting the two (old and new) side by side to see if I can find a difference between them.
As it runs now I would say it is a bit rough at idle, and there is a small lag before it starts producing power right off of idle. All in all I think It is reliable now, just not as smothe as I would perfer.
Once I figure out the MAF and get the computer to go into closed loop cycle I want to see how good the mileage is, as well as how smothe I can get it to run.
As for the gasket, I just bought the gasket for the 1993 sentra (metallic gasket) and cut with tin snips the area where the 3 bolts had changed so it would fit the head.
I think the debugging is drawing closer to a finish!
Ok I got the TPS/Throttle switch from the TBI manifold adapted to the MPFI manifold. I can get it to idle now, and the throttle response is much smoother. After some time of running the engine to get an idea of it's quirks (it still has a few that bother me) I decided to pull the codes from the computer to see if it noticed any issues. I am getting a code 12, which by my trusty Haynes manual says it is the MAF. I will be testing the MAF with a volt meter, and putting the two (old and new) side by side to see if I can find a difference between them.
As it runs now I would say it is a bit rough at idle, and there is a small lag before it starts producing power right off of idle. All in all I think It is reliable now, just not as smothe as I would perfer.
Once I figure out the MAF and get the computer to go into closed loop cycle I want to see how good the mileage is, as well as how smothe I can get it to run.
As for the gasket, I just bought the gasket for the 1993 sentra (metallic gasket) and cut with tin snips the area where the 3 bolts had changed so it would fit the head.
that is def coming along well, and quickly. Once running smoothly, will you be able to get some vid of how it is running for us?
__________________ I would rather be HATED for who I am, then LOVED for who I am not.
I should be able to make a video, though I am not sure of how the quality will be. I also will be taking pictures of each thing I had to make or modify, and making drawings of the parts I machined.
Ok I have figured out the MAF, it is quite simple actually. I now get a code 55 all systems good from the computer.
I still am not getting it to go into the closed loop cycle, and I am wondering if it is because the plugs or O2 sensor is fouled up with oil or gas (the pulsar engine does burn some oil).
So far the "Major" things that need to be done to adapt the MPFI is the 3 holes need to be slotted on the manifold, the coolant line from the thermostat housing needs to be adapted from 3/8" to 5/8" to fit on the manifold. The TPS needs an adapter shaft so you can re-use the stock TPS/throttle switch.
And the MAF needs a calibration resistor installed between ground (pins 3+4) and pin 5. The stock MAF uses a POT (potentiometer, AKA variable resistor) that the factory adjusts to calibrate the MAF, and the new one does not have this variable resistor. The trick was to temporarily splice the old POT into the new MAF and adjust untill the mixture is right. Then measure the value of the the POT and install a resistor in its place.
Now that I have everything but the EGR, Charcoal canister, and temp gauge hooked up the engine runs much smoother, still a little throttle lag, probably from improper adjustment on TPS; I will be finalizing everything I can so that I can make some reliable documentation on everything.
BTW the power band seems to be:
1,000 RPM-3,900 RPM very similar to stock good general power
4,000 RPM- 5,900RPM huge boost in power, 25-35 HP?
6,000 RPM- 6,700 RPM still a signifficant boost in power from stock 10-15 HP?
I need to get someone to ride along with me to video, and time the acceleration, but my estimate is a good 5-6 seconds have been cut from its 0-60MPH time.
That is all for today!
Bob
That's a great idea! I was planning on putting my spare 5 speed box from an 89 pulsar in the Sentra, as soon as I have that then the gears will be the same between the two so I could do a run with each to see the numbers.
On the Dyno, I have never paid for a session before, how much does it usually cost? I am unsure that I could afford it right now. So far this project's expenses are just my time and $70 of parts from my local auto wrecker, and $15 for gaskets from Auto parts store. I also plan in the next few weeks to save for the Euro cam so I can get even more out of this engine, though I would like to see the numbers with just the manifold first.
Well, I am off to do some more research.
Bob
Definitely save for the eurocam bob. it's so completely worth the investment.
as for dyno times, they can be expensive. best thing is to find a buddy that has one and let him use your dyno for a case of beer. or someone that will let you pay them over time. but maybe you have a local dyno that's inexpensive. just ask around .
Definitely save for the eurocam bob. it's so completely worth the investment.
as for dyno times, they can be expensive. best thing is to find a buddy that has one and let him use your dyno for a case of beer. or someone that will let you pay them over time. but maybe you have a local dyno that's inexpensive. just ask around .
not really that expensive....around here (dallas) it is on special alot for 30 for 3 pulls, and I think normally 3 pulls are around 40-60 depending. I will be getting pulls done on my pulsar as I get into it as well....I just want it running first.
I think I will be swapping the engine to achieve that though )
__________________ I would rather be HATED for who I am, then LOVED for who I am not.
not really that expensive....around here (dallas) it is on special alot for 30 for 3 pulls, and I think normally 3 pulls are around 40-60 depending. I will be getting pulls done on my pulsar as I get into it as well....I just want it running first.
I think I will be swapping the engine to achieve that though )
wow that's really good pricing. dynoing is expensive out here.
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