Ok, so I know I have had the cam for 3 months, and I know i have waited WAY too long to put it in, and I am dreadfully sorry. to be honest, i was scared hah. having never done anything like it, i was a little afraid of bending my valves, or blowing up the engine.
But, yesterday, a friend and i spent a couple hours, and did it, and everything went spledid, besides the absence of tools because a certain family member decided to use them earlier in the week, then left them in the vehicle and locked the door, and were not present at the time. another headache for another time however.
So, here we go.
What you will need:
1. A torque wrench. must be capable of up to 76 lbs.ft. of torque. this means that if you have a 20-80 lbs.ft. torque wrench it is NOT appropriate. within 10% of a torque wrenches min/max it is inaccurate. for this you should probably have one that's rated for 120+
2. assorted sockets and wrenches. keep everything 6 point. don't use 12 points, as a lot of these bolts will be oily or old and corroded. a 12 point socket/wrench is just looking to round off your nuts/bolts, and stick you in the ass.
3. a jack. not to lift the engine. YOU DO NOT NEED TO LIFT YOUR ENGINE. major mis-nomer. i was continuously told this, i did it without doing so. as to why you need the jack, you'll find out shortly.
4. Nissan/Nismo GA16i EuroCam. Part No. 13020-88A00. you can get this here: MyNismo: GA16i EuroCam
and trust me, it is WELL worth the money. most significant upgrade to your 89-90 b12/kn13 for the money spent. it costs you less than a pacessetter header or exhaust and is way less of a headache, and adds more power. i'll go through the difference after the write-up.
5. Engine Internal break in lube. this is essential. soak the cam in this for a good period of time, and store it in a Warm area, otherwise the lube will gain a sticky consistency and be almost more like glue.
6. a valve cover gasket and a timing gasket set. these are good to replace, so do it. it will help you in the long run, and they're not expensive.
7. A friend, because two sets of hands is way better than one with this job. however, it can be done solo with how i am outlining it.
***NOTE*** you do not need to drain the oil for this, as the camshaft is in the head, and all but a negligible amount of oil should be in the oilpan! if there is an excess of oil in the head, the engine is still hot, or you overfilled it on oil.
Here's the step by step:
1. Pop the hood, let the car cool if it has been running. you don't need to singe off your fingertips before you've even started.
2. remove the airbox and filter. this will just make life easier.
3. remove the valve cover.
4. Remove the distributor cap.
5. MARK YOUR TIMING ON THE DISTRIBUTOR!! unless you want to go through the mess of re-timing your engine, mark this by simply marking at which point the flange mates up with the head.
6. Remove the distributor.
7. Remove the cam cover plate. it's on the left of the engine, next to cylinder 1.
This is what your engine bay should now look like:
8. Now it is time to jack the car up. jack it up on the engine cradle member that runs longitudinally with the car. it's the most secure and the strongest point under the car to lift.
9. with your bare hands, turn the crank pully until it is set so that Cylinder #1 is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. to find this out, simply look at the end of the camshaft through the distributor hole. when the slit in the camshaft is horizontal with the larger portion of the cam journal on the lower end. here is a picture to go along with this:
notice that the bottom portion is bigger than the upper portion. this is TDC of compression on cylinder 1.
10. remove the rocker assembly by removing the bolts in the center of the rocker shaft that hold it to the head. lift it out gently, and set it down somewhere CLEAN. i just set it on a towel like this:
Your engine bay should now look like this:
11. secure the timing chain to the cam sprocket. this can be done with zip ties or wire. you don't want to lose the timing chain, because that would suck the big one. here's a pic:
12. remove the timing sprocket bolt. it's the big sucker in the center of the cam sprocket. it holds the sprocket to the cam. DO NOT drop the washer into the head. you'll hate yourself.
13. gently pull the sprocket free of the camshaft. it may take a little bit of force, but you want to be gentle.
14. now secure the sprocket to the side of the head by using a wire or zip tie and tieing it by the cam plate cover. here's a pic of the plate off, hopefully you get the idea:
15. slide the camshaft out slowly and gently through the distributor end of the head. while this camshaft doesn't matter to you anymore, the journal housing does. the last thing you want to do is mess them up, because your new eurocam will be destroyed the instant you turn the key. you will have to move the battery out of the way to get the cam out.
YES!! you now have the old camshaft out! inspect it to see if there was any major wear on it, as you don't want to put in a new camshaft and have it destroyed quickly because there was something already wrong that was killing the old one.
now take a break, get a drink of water and maybe a light snack and lets get at it
16. take your new, nicely lubed up Eurocam and gently slide it in through the distributor end. a common misconception was that the cam had to come out through the distributor end, and go in through the sprocket end. that was the reason for previously lifting the engine. it made no sense to me why it couldn't go in through the distributor end, so it did
17. line up the camshaft so that the dash in the distributor end is horizontal, just like the old one was when you took it out.
18. on the cam sprocket, there will be a small slit coming off the center hole. you will also notice a small protrusion on that end of the camshaft. line up the slit with the protrusion when putting them together. this is so that they fit up together properly, and turn together.
19. re-install the cam sprocket bolt, and tighten it to 76 lb.ft. do this in three stages, first tightening it to 40, then 60, then 76. this will give you the best result.
20. Make sure thate everything is lined up so that Cylinder #1 is at TDC of compression. through loosening and tightening the cam sprocket, this may have been lost.
21. re-install the rocker shaft. tighten the bolts to 41 ft.lbs. in proper sequence, starting with the CENTER bolt, then the two inside bolts, then the two outside bolts. if you DONTdo this, you could bend, or even crack the rocker shaft, and then you're fucked. that's a $500+ parts bill. so do it right!!
22. you'll notice that the sprocket cover plate has a small paper gasket on it, but in your timing gasket set you may not have gotten a replacement gasket. but, what you will have is a small tube of black RTV sealer. this is liquid gasket. remove the old gasket from the plate, and put a nice bead of RTV on the sprocket plate, and re-install it.
23. re-install the distributor and cap, making sure that you line up the timing marks that you made so that you don't have to guess the timing and risk blowing up your engine
24. reinstall the valve cover with the NEW valve cover gasket. the gasket for our valve covers is a damn hefty one, and a good one
. yay nissan!
25. reinstall your air box assembly.
26. Run the car in neutral for 20-30 minutes at about 2000 rpm. this is simply a proper engine break in procedure.
27. take it for a test and enjoy
Ok, so i REALLY notice the difference. this is partially because right now i am running open header, and with the lack of back pressure, my car lacks torque. severely.
the Eurocam actually solved this. it holds power on hills to the point of being able to still accelerate quickly, and in gear with low throttle. it's incredible. i will still be hooking up the rest of the exhaust however, because the noise is too great.
as well, some of you may have noticed your car doesn't have much pull past third gear, with nearly nothing in fifth.
the eurocam gave me a much smoother, and quicker accelerating pull through gears 1 through 4. and fifth now has power! it's incredible how such a mild mod has such an amazing effect. the car runs smoother, it runs faster, and is so much more enjoyable to drive. this thing is totally worth it. if you want to keep your GA16i, GET THIS CAM!!!
with my EFI conversion coming up, it will be a hard decision whether or not to boost my GA16i. it may stay N/A simply because it will already be quicker and such. it may also be more logical to learn how to tune an ITB setup, and install that. so keep your eyes posted for more from me