I'm replacing the 2 outter boots on my 88' sentra e15i. I have the boots and everything already taken apart but i've hit a snag. I cant figure out for the life of me how to remove the outter CV joint so i can slip the boot on. Do you just pound the hell out of the joint (which would risk pulling the inner joint out and ripping that boot) or I see some kind of retaining clip which is on the axle shaft, but i dont understad how that would be holding the CV on since it's on the inner side (if that makes sense) HELP!@#!
I really dont want to take the whole shaft axle out of the car since my chiltons warns that you need a special tool to re-align the axle splines or some BS, If someone can discredit this info that would be awesome, i'd much rather be doing this on the bench! WARNING: I am not going to replace the whole assembly, I dont have the green to spend, I have to leave thursday for Boston, and i need my car re-assembled ASAP.
__________________
I think my car would lose against a lawn-mower
hmmmmm all u need to do for realignment is twist the axel until it lines up, a lock ring is all that holds it in the tranny case, and u obviously see the cotter pin and bolt set up keeping the axel in the hub. the only hard part sometimes is that the nut is on there REALLL good some times and needs a lil persuasion to let go
tell me about it....the first hub bolt came off no problem, the passenger side has claimed it's 3rd 1/2 in drive wrench! AND IT'S STILL ON! I just ground down the sides of my 32mm socket so i can put a plumbers pipe wrench on there and hopefully that won't break Anyway, i still need to know how to get that outter CV joint off so i can slip the boot on the axel. It would be nice if i could do it on the car....my chiltons says that you need to replace the oil seals once you remove the shaft, but i guess i can get away without doing that. Thanks!
__________________
I think my car would lose against a lawn-mower
you only need the alignment tool if you pull both shafts at once when I got my tranny from the yard I busted the inner joints and left them in the tranny to ensure that the gears did not fall like can happen so do one at a time and grease the seal up when you reinstall the shaft.
okay, i drained the tranny and i got the driver's side shaft completely out and on the bench.....now what??? I pounded at the outter joint a lil bit but it's not budging! Do i need to take the "circlip"? off or what? BTW where's the fill hole for the 5-speed located, the transmission in the book looks totally different from mine. Thanks!
__________________
I think my car would lose against a lawn-mower
okay, i drained the tranny and i got the driver's side shaft completely out and on the bench.....now what??? I pounded at the outter joint a lil bit but it's not budging! Do i need to take the "circlip"? off or what? BTW where's the fill hole for the 5-speed located, the transmission in the book looks totally different from mine. Thanks!
Ok if you have a vice , great. Is what you need to do is anchore the axle (shaft) ,next grab on to the outer c.v. joint with on hand and pull like hell while striking the rear of the c.v joint with a fairly large hammer and fairly hard.You want to strike the joint perpendicular to the shaft.Right on top of the "bell"
What Im trying to say is with everthing lined up in a strait line and you pulling on the joint just strike the top of the joint, dont be affraid of it
Hope this helps
You take that circlip off and everything will fallout. Then you can clean the bearings and repack the grease. Did you buy a kit? It should come with a new circlip and grease. Check your FLAPS. You can get rebuilt axles for around $50 ea. Kits cost around $10 for each joint. I recall having to take both joints apart in order to get one of the boots on. (SR20 axle.)
I just bought a universal boot kit for both sides, I caught it soon after they ripped, I keep my eye on stuff like that. Anyway, where do you get these kits from? also, where are you finding these axels for 50$?
My problem is that my suspension has been "clunking" as I ride over bumps, so I went in there and replaced my strut mounts. This is when I saw that my outter CV boots were ripped. After doing all this work, I test drove the car and the clunking was still there, there's no difference from before. The clunking has been there since I bought the car a year ago, but it wasn't as bad then. I've shaken the suspention around and I cant find any play anywhere but my control arm bushings do look dry-rotted out. Do you guys think this could be the culpret? I probably should go and replace them anyway.
Where can I get new bushings for my control arms that wont hurt the wallet? and do they need to be pressed in or out of the arm or can I do it in a vice or something?
__________________
I think my car would lose against a lawn-mower
i have a clunking over bumps also and its my sway bar links, i just have more important things to fix at the moment, but that sounds to me what your problem is also being that u ahvent mentiond any stearing issues or clunking around corners in peticular
Anyway, where do you get these kits from? also, where are you finding these axels for 50$?
My problem is that my suspension has been "clunking" as I ride over bumps, so I went in there and replaced my strut mounts. This is when I saw that my outter CV boots were ripped. After doing all this work, I test drove the car and the clunking was still there, there's no difference from before. The clunking has been there since I bought the car a year ago, but it wasn't as bad then. I've shaken the suspention around and I cant find any play anywhere but my control arm bushings do look dry-rotted out. Do you guys think this could be the culpret? I probably should go and replace them anyway.
Where can I get new bushings for my control arms that wont hurt the wallet? and do they need to be pressed in or out of the arm or can I do it in a vice or something?
CSK has reman axles online for 65. I found them at Mikes Discount Auto (FLAPS favorite local auto parts store) for $55.
When you say "bushings for control arms" do you mean ball joints? If yes, then yes. They do need to be pressed out/in and it's my guess that that is your clunk ing problem. I brought NAPA a pair of A-arms and they pressed the new ones in for $30. Auto zone had the cheapest ball joints at the time and they were $15 ea. NAPA screwed up and gave me back one of the arms with a $45 greasable Moog ball joint.
I think i'm going to rebuild my whole front suspension. no, i dont mean my ball joints, which i guess could also be a possibility, but there's no play anywhere, thats what confuses me and makes this problem so hard to pinpoint. What I mean are the front and rear bushings where the arm attaches the the frame. those ones I can see are pretty rotted out.
I dont think i mentioned, i saw that my inner boot was ripped as well (AHHH) but i just threw some new grease in there because i had to drive to boston the nest day (where i am right now). Problem: i have a 4wd sentra, the inner CV on that side plugs through the transfer case and into the differential, so it's a wierd length. Lemmie tell you, 4wd is awesome....untill you need to find specific parts for it. I'll look around though. Thanks guys!
__________________
I think my car would lose against a lawn-mower
If you start the front end I would say save up and replace everything at once then have it alligned that way all is good and you do not have a weak link killing your new bushings. Also may be a good time to replace the hubs(bearings).
You know, this thread started out with ( not removing driveshafts) and
it looks like you had to anyway.
There is a good reason why most people just buy re-man axles.
I'm guessing next time you will too.
But hey, I learned the same way.......
Soooo,here is what I usually do.
If it is just axles, I get a re-man or two, un-hook the strut
at the knuckle, replace the axles.
Now recently, I purchased a strut level tool that magnetically
attaches to my brake rotor.Set the level on it and then re- attach after the axle job. This keeps the alignment correct.
Some things are getting better............
Anyway, i still need to know how to get that outter CV joint off so i can slip the boot on the axel. It would be nice if i could do it on the car....my chiltons says that you need to replace the oil seals once you remove the shaft, but i guess i can get away without doing that. Thanks!
Linear Mode
