I have an '88 Pulsar. The battery is pulled down overnight. If I pull the Batt./Alt fusible link, the drain stops. Also, and I think, related, the headlights don't light. Checking the three pin connector on either headlight, I have a ground on the 'hot' terminal and power to the ground terminal ! Anybody have any ideas?
you have a short and need to trace it out may be in your alternator or in your headlight circuit. Unhook the wiring loom on the back of the alt and let it sit overnight if you still have batt left then it is in your alt.
Well...you could either have one or more defective headlight relay(s) (You've got seven under the hood...OUCH!) or...same as in my situation recently: A bad alternator, from the initial symptoms.
To check the alternator: Hook a voltmeter to your battery: Set it to read in the 12-volt range, attach the black lead to negative and red lead to positive. You should have around 12 volts or so (In your situation). Start 'er up and read your voltage: It should read around 14 or so (The alternator, if good, will jump the voltage up a little); If not, rev the engine to 2000 rpm and read again. If there's no change at all, your alternator's defunct. Never dealt with headlight issues, so I hope it's alternator (More $$$, but less headaches). Best of luck!
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You might also want to check out your headlight switch. I have had 2 go bad although mostly they have been no light conditions. Enough juice runs through the switch that one was even melted on the connector on the backside. there are several small contact points inside the switch that can get burned or coroded. If you do take the switch apart be careful there are some small pieces that can get away from you if your not careful!
GOOD thought! I had that happen, too. The little spring-loaded 'tits' inside get melted from heat resistance and the switch can fail. Here's how I fixed that...for good:
I went to the junkyard and got some rocker switches out of the mid- to late-'80s Volvos, took them apart and got the BRASS 'tits' out of them. I filed the open ends down until the brass tits were the same length as the original plastic ones (There's 5 of 'em), used the old springs and slid the new, brass tits in place. Lubed 'em up with a tiny dab or two of dielectric grease, put it all back together, and never had a problem since. Try it, you'll like it; It's how Nissan should've done it to begin with. Best of luck!
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Thanks for the help........ It turned out that the diodes in the altenator were cooked. Probably from the previous owner reversing polarity when jumping the car off. Got it running good now. Its a cute little car. Thanks Again.
why is it that pulsars inheritet nissans electrical buggs and the sentra seems less effected if at all?? Well I am glad that it is fixed sorry I was right the alt is a very spendy part to replace I have replaced two 50 bucks used for one and 125 for a rebuilt if it fails I will put a GM one wire on LOL
Thanks for the help........ It turned out that the diodes in the altenator were cooked. Probably from the previous owner reversing polarity when jumping the car off. Got it running good now. Its a cute little car. Thanks Again.
*CHING!!!* My problem exactly a couple months back. I suspected as much, but glad you found it. Enjoy!
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Later, taters; Off to a better place. Catch me there!
Pulsar Elec. Help
Fixed It !!!!!!!!!
Linear Mode
