That would be awesome if you could walk me through it...I don't know much about wiring and stuff but my friend has rewired his car to switch it from manual windows to power windows...and mirrors and stuff. He has wiring know how...so it could be done....definietly would like to put the 200 towards actual gear...
I like your head unit. might go with the 33 instead of the 35....save the $100 or so...
So what would put together with the current price range? stay with the Resonant Engineering and Kicker for the subs? or can it be upgraded even more....
i've realized that it was insane to try to put a "Good" system together with 400$....I'd really love to have a fiberglass enclosure...I saw a few threads about how to's....how much if you don't do it yourself?
Yeah the 33 is an awesome unit, it has all the features of the 35 minus the display. If you're on a budget I don't think the display on the 35 would be worth the extra $100.
So if you went with the 33 (the 31 would also be a good choice), that's what, like $300? Add in about $100 for wiring, then maybe some CDT classics from www.thezeb.com and a JBL 80.2 (just picking things out of thin air) would work for your front stage. You could stick with a Resonant Engineering 12" SE, a JBL 600.1 for a sub amp and a add in a box. It might push your $1000 a bit, but without pricing everything out there's no way to be sure.
And I think you meant a fiberglass box, not carbon fiber. Carbon fiber could be done, but you definitely couldn't do it yourself and it would cost a TON. Fiberglass will take some time to do, but from what I hear (I've never done it myself, that's the one thing I really want to try) it's pretty easy. If you were to have one custom made for you it would be several hundred dollars though since there's so much labor involved.
Yeah i'm an idiot....I meant fiberglass but i'm at work and am distracted so I read fiber and I think carbon....duh....
yeah i was looking at the alpine head units....they all look vaguely the same....there was a 9805 that was $189...so i might do that.... What does one look for in a head unit...obviously more than just a pretty display and ease of use....
sooo...
Head unit: Alpine CDA 9805 - 189
Comp Amp: JBL 80.2 - 79.99
Wiring - 100
Components: Cdt Audio CL-41 Car Component System - 250
Sub Amp: JBL 600.1 - 220
I looked up the Resonant Engineering and couldn't find anything except peoples personal websites...no manufactor website or stores selling it....
so that brings the total to about 740...hmmm
Would a 15" be better than a 10 or 12"....common sense would say yes since the number is higher....what about in the audio world
That component system should be much cheaper, last time I checked it was around $150. I believe the model number is the CL-61
RE's website is www.reaudio.com but unfortunately they don't have any prices listed. You can get the prices by emailing (I've heard they don't respond to emails too quickly though) or calling them. I think the 12 SE is around $220? But that's really a complete guess, it could be totally wrong.
Other than that it all looks fine, if you wanted you could step up a little on the front stage amp (to a 160.2 maybe), but it might not be doable in your price range.
Ahh i see the 150....yey...an extra 100... I just typed in the Cdt Audio Car Component System in epinions.com and that's the only one that was there....now i got the CL-61 at 150...good stuff...
So you really think that the resonant engineering is the way to go for the sub? and for the wires....still the 4 gauge monsters?
RE is a good choice and so is the kicker L7. Unfortunately those are really the only 2 decent SPL-oriented companies that I know of. All the others that I know are built to sound good, they can get pretty loud, but one of those that can get as loud as say an L7 is going to cost twice as much as one.
I would stick with one of those 2 brands if I were you, but keep in mind, the L7, while cheaper, is going to require a larger box which will both cost more and take up more trunk space. It's really a tradeoff
As for the wiring, 4ga would still work well. Though with 2 amps you are going to need a distrobution block, some 8ga wire, and a second rca cable. This raises the cost a bit, but it's not too bad (maybe $30). You would want the same as what I listed earlier in this thread, except you would want to throw in a 1 4ga to 2 8ga distro (doesn't need to be fused), maybe 5-10ft of 8ga wire, and a second rca cable. I'm sure if you can't then the other people here could put together everything you would need, unfortunately I have no rights at work and this is one of the few sites I can actually go to, so I can't pick out anything in particular. www.darvex.com and www.knukonceptz.com are good sites for misc wiring stuff though
Now these two companies will still sound good right? You scared me there with the only 2 SQL companies and the rest are made to sound good....
i'm learning more about the subs and amps...but now wires...I have no idea, trying to learn..
what's a distribution block?
and what goes into making a good box for a sub? Homemade might be the way to go...I could make a box out of wood if that's all it requires...and then carpet it... is there any certain features that are important?
15,12 or 10..?
Also...what's the difference between the kicker L5 and L7 other than $100? I couldn't find much in the descriptions...
They'll sound pretty decent, they won't win any sound quality competitions or anything, but they should satisfy you. A couple people on here have L5s and L7s, they can tell you better than I can how the sound quality is on them.
A distrobution block is a hunk of metal with holes and set screws in it. You take the cable running from the battery and screw it into one of the holes, and then you run 2 wires out of the other 2 holes and those go to your amps. It basically just splits the single cable into a pair of cables, one for each amp.
There isn't much that goes into making a good box. Ported is a bit harder, since you have a lot more pieces of wood that have to be cut and set in place (still not hard), the hardest part of a ported box is just designing it and getting some schematics to go off of. A sealed box is pretty simple, you look at the sub manufacturer's website, you pick a size in the range that they have listed, and you build a box that big. You just have to make sure that you have enough depth in the box so the sub won't hit the back when you try to set it in (you should leave atleast 1" from the very back of the sub to the back wall), and you have to make sure all of the joints are solid and very sealed. Other than that there really isn't anything you have to worry about, just use 3/4" mdf and lots of wood glue.
As for what size to get...it's all a compromise. A larger sub will be more efficient (get louder off the same amount of power) and can play deeper, but it requires a larger box which weighs more and takes up more trunk space. I would go with a 12 or a 15 if I were in your shoes, definitely not a 10.
I've been recieving alot of flack concerning my wish to upgrade. Some things i've heard is that since i have the RF package that it's so great and upgrading the headunit, components and sub is a waste of money because nissan "finely engineered the package"
I've also been told by some friends that JBL is crap and to stay away...
If i actually paid for the RF package i'd probably keep it and not even think of upgrading...but since the dealership guy totally messed up on my price i basically got it for free[17K tax tags and title, sunroof and RF package]...so no hard feelings about it...
what i want to know is on a scale...lets say 1-10 and 1 is stock and 10 is top grade thousands of dollars worth of stuff...where is the RF package? is it like a 2 or like a 5...
Who keeps telling you that nissan "finely engineered the package"? Have they actually heard something good to have any basis for an opinion, or are they just saying that because it's "Rockford Fosgate" and since it's a big name it must be good? I've heard the RF package a few times, and it's not good in any interpretation of the word. I could start listing off things that are lacking, but there's no point because it's pretty much everything. It's enough to satisfy the people who listen to talk radio, music at very low volumes, or people that just couldn't give 2 shits about how their music sounds. If I were to rank it on a scale from 1-10, where 1 is a working system (nothing blown), but it sounds like complete crap and 10 is competition level, I would rate the RF system around a 3 and the base 180 watt system around a 2.
About JBL, they do make budget stuff, but they're solid. I wouldn't touch their speakers since there is better out there for the money, but their amps are good. Do the people that say they're crap have any bad experiences with them or are they just going off of heresay?
It's actually my boyfriend who says that the RF package is a nice finely engineered thing that i shouldn't mess with...he's not really into bass...or loud music...he thinks it's offensive..
I on the other hand love bass and if it rattles your mirrors its ok...if it rattles the car next to yours it's awesome...I like to be obnoxious sometimes...not all the time...i do want a quality system that sounds good when i don't want to turn it up....i usually only have loud music when my windows are open to ...do exactly what this forum says "drown out the sound of my exhaust" heh
I don't like having to ride around with my bass on +5 and everything else on 0 to hear some bass...it gets muddy sounding...i found putting my backseat down...which was actually a joke at first, allowed me to hear the bass better...I can almost here the bass drum hitting...my bass has more punch with the seats down...
The person who doesn't like JBL, he works in Car shops and has been into the car thing since he learned to drive. They are friends with alot of audio people and he's had experience with the amps being crap. He did agree on the kicker for the sub though...
I don't know about these things so I can't really decide....
What i have decided on so far...is that i'm going to just get 2 10" kicker solo-baric L7s...the 10" sub has the same surface area as a normal 15" and i should get a 20hz overlap [i've been told] then i need an amp to power them...
I'm going to leave the headunit and components alone for now...i figure when i blow out my current speakers...then i can upgrade...I just don't have the money right now to plunk down 1500 for a new system...as much as i'd like it.
It's actually my boyfriend who says that the RF package is a nice finely engineered thing that i shouldn't mess with...he's not really into bass...or loud music...he thinks it's offensive..
I on the other hand love bass and if it rattles your mirrors its ok...if it rattles the car next to yours it's awesome...I like to be obnoxious sometimes...not all the time...i do want a quality system that sounds good when i don't want to turn it up....i usually only have loud music when my windows are open to ...do exactly what this forum says "drown out the sound of my exhaust" heh
I don't like having to ride around with my bass on +5 and everything else on 0 to hear some bass...it gets muddy sounding...i found putting my backseat down...which was actually a joke at first, allowed me to hear the bass better...I can almost here the bass drum hitting...my bass has more punch with the seats down...
The person who doesn't like JBL, he works in Car shops and has been into the car thing since he learned to drive. They are friends with alot of audio people and he's had experience with the amps being crap. He did agree on the kicker for the sub though...
I don't know about these things so I can't really decide....
What i have decided on so far...is that i'm going to just get 2 10" kicker solo-baric L7s...the 10" sub has the same surface area as a normal 15" and i should get a 20hz overlap [i've been told] then i need an amp to power them...
I'm going to leave the headunit and components alone for now...i figure when i blow out my current speakers...then i can upgrade...I just don't have the money right now to plunk down 1500 for a new system...as much as i'd like it.
1 12 in L7 powers my SE-R too the point where it wants to break it in 2. and ur bf finds it offensive!?!?!?! stick in the mud...
"I don't like having to ride around with my bass on +5 and everything else on 0 to hear some bass...it gets muddy sounding...i found putting my backseat down...which was actually a joke at first, allowed me to hear the bass better...I can almost here the bass drum hitting...my bass has more punch with the seats down..."
Yep, that's actually part of the reason most people here say to not even bother putting in rear speakers. If you take out the rear speakers, not only do you not lose any of your music (they're pretty useless as long as you have some decent front speakers), you also open up some vents to the trunk which gives you the same effect as laying down the rear seats. I noticed a pretty big improvement in bass when I got rid of my rear speakers, and on humid mornings my sub actually defrosts my window for me (no joke )
"The person who doesn't like JBL, he works in Car shops and has been into the car thing since he learned to drive. They are friends with alot of audio people and he's had experience with the amps being crap. He did agree on the kicker for the sub though..."
Well everyone has their own opinion, and he's entitled to think what he wants. I personally have only heard 2 negative things about the JBL monoblocks:
1 - they don't like being run at 1ohm, even though they're "1 ohm stable" it's better to run them at 2ohm, and since they put out the same power at 2ohm it's no biggie
2 - the crossovers suck
Other than those, they're supposed to be very good. Reliable, powerful, etc. Another option would be the phoenix gold tantrum monoblocks.
"What i have decided on so far...is that i'm going to just get 2 10" kicker solo-baric L7s...the 10" sub has the same surface area as a normal 15" and i should get a 20hz overlap [i've been told] then i need an amp to power them..."
Whoever told you this, never listen to them for anything again, because they obviously have no idea what they're talking about.
1 - The 10" L7 doesn't have anywhere NEAR the surface area of a normal 15, it's around half at best. If I could go to kicker's site I would check it out, but I can't. Could you go there and post the Sd for the 10" L7? The Sd is the surface area of the cone, and a normal 15 has a surface area around 800-850 cm^2 (or .08-.085 m^2)
2 - wtf is a 20hz overlap?
just what i've been told...i guess since it's square its the same as a round 15...or so i've been told...i'm just all repeating here...
The 20hz overlap is that the reason for getting 2 10s would be that one can handle one side of the spectrum and the other the other half...and then there would be an overlap...now if it's hz i'm not sure...
the sd for the 10" L7...umm i'm not sure what sd is....but i'll just paste it all:
Model S10L7
Size (IN., CM) 10, 25.4
Impedance (OHMS) 2 DVC, 4 DVC
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS PEAK)1200
Max Rec Amplifier Power (WATTS RMS) 600
Sensitivity (dB 1W/1M) 85.7
Frequency Response (HZ) 24-100
Mounting Depth (IN., CM) 6-3/8, 16.2
Mounting Cutout, Square (IN., CM) 9-1/2, 24.1
Min Rec Sealed Box Vol (CU. FT., LITERS) .66, 18.7
Max Rec Sealed Box Vol (CU. FT., LITERS) 1.0, 28.3
Min Rec Vented Box Vol* (CU. FT., LITERS) 1.25, 35.4
Max Rec Vented Box Vol* (CU. FT., LITERS) 2.25, 63.8
i don't have a clue what that means...but i think that's the new one...which looks completely different than the old one...and is twice as expensive....
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