but seriously....I know it sucks to do thing half assed... but I simply can NOT do more than 400... because I already have a sub and an amp...so people [my mom] will be like "why are you wasting your money blah blah blah.."
I was hoping a simple...add a new sub or something...
What I would suggest is keeping that $400, putting it in a savings, then slowly start adding to it. Once you get around $600 or $700 then go after the system thing. That way you can get everything all done at once with good quality equipment. Its not good to half ass systems. Cuz if you do, you will be pissed once you have more bass than mids and high's, then your gonna wanna take your bass back out or turn it down back to the way your old stuff sounded. Save up more money then go after a system, its just a wiser thing to do.
What I would suggest is keeping that $400, putting it in a savings, then slowly start adding to it. Once you get around $600 or $700 then go after the system thing. That way you can get everything all done at once with good quality equipment. Its not good to half ass systems. Cuz if you do, you will be pissed once you have more bass than mids and high's, then your gonna wanna take your bass back out or turn it down back to the way your old stuff sounded. Save up more money then go after a system, its just a wiser thing to do.
If you can only do 400, that is probably the best idea. I got my first system from Walmart and blew nearly everything the first week. Anyone who gets a sub no matter what they say will want loud bass and love to turn it up.
You are up to 450 with the basics. You may want to go back and get Dynamat, a Cap, and maybe a better battery. But something along this would make a nice setup (minus the box) that would have a good amount of thump and be very clean and reliable.
Ah shit where to begin
I work for 2hrs, come back and the thread is already 3 pages long....
K, it sounds like you want loud with reasonable quality. This should push you towards a single ported 12 or 15. With your budget ($400 for sub, amp, box and wiring is it?), I would look to spend $70 on a box (unless you can build your own), $60 on wiring/LOC, that leaves $270 for a sub and amp. I would spend about $150 on a sub, and the rest on a budget amp. Subwoofer brands to check out for what you want are Resonant Engineering and Kicker, amp brands are Profile (the California line, www.millionbuy.com has good prices), and maybe JBL or Phoenix Gold Octane. Ignore JL completely, they don't give what you're looking for and you'll just spend way more than you should for what you want.
Your stock sub is in a box, that's what the plastic black thing is. It will be the same way with a new box except it will be made out of wood and most likely carpetted (unless you build your own). Your stock amp is crap and won't be able to power anything worthwhile, the best you can do is just leave it alone and remove the stock sub so it doesn't take up any room.
Forget about a capacitor as they're worthless, you can probably ignore sound deadening for now, maybe later you'll decide you want it and you can go from there(Dynamat is one brand, and also happens to be 2-3 times more expensive than anything else, and the quality isn't any better than the others either. Other brands are B-Quiet, Rammat, SecondSkin, and Edead). You'll want a 4 or 8 gauge wiring kit (most likely 4ga) and a set of decent rcas. Don't get Monster Cable, they're noisier than other brands (according to numerous independent comparisons) and also cost a helluva lot more. If you don't think the rcas that are included with the wiring kit are adequate (they're normally on the cheap side), one of the inexpensive Stinger rcas would work well, and they're pretty cheap on ebay. If you have any questions go ahead and ask, but I probably won't respond until late tonight when I get back home
If it has RCAs, it will work. SR20 and I are going to disagree but IMO Monster is the way to go. Cheaper wires result in audible distortion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowsentragirl
and another question....what are tweeters? Like what do they do?
Tweeters are the seperate or attached part to speakers that account for highs. Highs are as in trebble. They aren't related to subs. In fact, they are the opposite of subs.
Monster is noiseir than other brands? Get outta here?!
I have used Monster at home, work, and car for years and have always liked their sound more than anything else, especially for home audio.
I've talked to multiple people who went from other brands to Monster, or from Monster to other brands, and every one of them said that with the Monster cables the sound was less dynamic (everything kind of muddied together) and had more noise. I haven't tried them myself, so I can't really tell you more, I'm just saying what I've heard.
Those subs would work, but if you're going for a cheap/loud setup then a pair of 10's is really the opposite of what you want to do, ESPECIALLY sealed. They'll have roughly the same displacement as a single 12, cost nearly twice as much, require twice as much power, take up more room, and won't play as low 90% of the time. I would really look more towards a single ported 12 or 15, you'll get much louder for your money with a nearly inaudible drop in sound quality. The Phoenix Gold Ti15's are on a huge sale right now until they clear them out, one of those would be a good choice. Keep in mind, this one sub will sound better than the CompVRs, it's cheaper than them, and it would take 4 of the CompVR 10's to beat it in pure output. http://www.cbrstereo.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=501
Amp selection will come after the sub selection, you have to pick an amp to match the impedence of the sub(s) that you choose.
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