1)Sony Xplode CD-PLayer....Put out, I think it was, 55w per channel. And had a broad frequency range, with very small distortion rating. Better numbers than some higher end decks.
Hate to break it to you, but Sony lies on their specs for the very reason of looking better than the competition. They're trying to play off of the group of people who judge something based on its rated specs alone and not how it actually performs. It's a shame car audio is such a small niche that nobody will take the time to prosecute them and other brands for false advertising.
Also, that 55x4 is a peak rating which is worthless, rms power is the only thing that matters and that deck is most likely in the 16-18x4 range like all others.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFurious
2)Sony Xplode 6&1/2's, 3 way speakers = Very clear highs, great for crisp clear highs. Decent mid range. Of course no low range (they're 6&1/2's!). Prolly' need to EQ, if possible, out the low frequency ranges to these. These also really changed my mind about Sony, the Xplode line is great for the price.
There are 6.5s with plenty of bass, but they're not made by Sony.
What you need is a highpass filter. That headunit should have some built in unless it's the worst of the worst, but Sony has surprised me before with the kind of important features they just decide to....leave out. You could get a pair of caps and make your own highpass filters if the headunit has none.
Alpine CDA 9853 - Awsome, 18wx4 (RMS) but like all other cd players(including sony) i belive it has 50W peak power and can play those 50W UNDISTORTED. also have preamp outs i-pod connect, sub control, custom EQ, plasma screen connect(i think) + the usual stuff.
Nice choice, but like I said before peak power is worthless; focus on rms, that's all that matters.
Quote:
Originally Posted by makaveli
For BASS I have a Punch 301M this amp is awsome it is rated @ 150WX1 @4ohms & 300WX1 @2ohms. how ever the birth sheet states that the measured power was somthing like ~200WX1 @4ohms, and ~400WX1 @2ohms....im going to get another but its rather hard to find. ive been searching ebay for about 5 months and the only ones ive seen are preboxed. i cant wait to get another and see the real power that amp has.
In conclusion rockford is the shiznit
any way im tired
laters
Unfortunately RF isn't what they used to be. That series of amps that you have are very nice, but they've gone downhill.
I totally agree Demon. People that believe that head unit power is USABLE power for anything other than stock speakers are sadly mistaken. Look at the size of a HU in comparison to a dedicated amp that is a true 50 x 4. Don't you think there is something wrong with this picture when the amp that produces a true 50 x 4 is twice the size of the HU?
The moral of this story is that you should never try and run good speakers off of HU power. A dedicated amp is the only way to go when you have decent co-axials or a component set. In fact I try and avoid any Hu that has abuilt in amplifier as it does nothing more than create unwanted heat and take up space that could be occupied by better components. IE: DA converters.
My brother installed 6.5 infinity reference speakers in his silverado and they sound great. They offer a loud crisp sound with an otherwise stock system. Only $69 too. I had pioneer 6x9 and 4x6 in my cavalier with a pioneer 2600 deck and that alone created good bass and crisp sound.
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Orgullo Mexicano No llore para mi
If youre lookin for some great priced coaxials, look into the cdt cl6-ex. I just put them in my daily driver running of the deck, theyre pretty good. A lot better then most of the coaxials youll find at best buy and circuit city, IMO.
I just realized I haven't updated anything since I last posted in this thread over a year ago when I first got the kodas. I was so animated back then, it's fun to read.
Anyway, the kodas lasted for about 3 months before I decided the soundstage was too low (tweets in the door panels right by the mids). I moved the tweets up to the a-pillars which raised the soundstage up quite a bit, but then I had audible separation and the tweets were too bright for me. A little over a year ago I went active and haven't looked back. I ended up lowering the cutoff frequency to 2.5k and increasing the cutoff slopes to 24dB/oct. That, mixed with the individual time correction and level adustment, completely eliminated separation, raised the soundstage right up to the top of the dash, and allowed me to attenuate the tweets so they sounded perfect. I'm really happy with them now and honestly have no complaints. I've been thinking about saying "f' it" to window travel and replacing the koda mids with some extremis mids, just so that I never have to worry about the mids bottoming out, ever. It's been more of a passive thought just sitting in the back of my mind though, nothing too immediate. Especially since I still have yet to distort the kodas on anything other than a 50hz test tone (I was testing how loud they could get out of curiosity) even without a highpass filter.
I also got the Brahma 15 a little over a year ago and have been enjoying that. It's in 2.5cf sealed and running off of 1500rms from a Cadence zrs-8. At the levels I have everything it barely even moves while listening to music, but I have several friends who think that a "system" consists of a loud sub and nothing else, so it's nice to be able to please them from time to time without worrying about blowing anything. It sounds amazing, and can get very loud if I ask it to. Eventually I might move it into the house and put it in a big, low-tuned ported box on a big plate amp and get something like an IDMAX 12 for the car, but it'll be a while before I do anything like that.
IDMAX 10D4 ~Running 2 of these. They having amazing low capabilities that allow it to compete w previous 12's I've owned. Currently they are tuned for SQ and just amaze me even with having to compete with my exhaust tone.
IDMAX 12D2 ~ Insane is just it. Running 1000rms to it and it just plays everything cleanly whether the volume is up or down. I haven't really put it to the test as it really is more than I NEED but it's nice to know it's there just in case. note: This is in a pathfinder.
Soundstream PC1000d ~ So far so good, no real issues although the fan is a little noisy on startup. Never even get's warm when pushing the IDMAX12.
Butler Tube Driver Blue 475 ~ Running 3 of these. One pushing my mids which just by hooking it up made them sound a lot warmer and just more distinguished without even tuning. You could just tell the difference immediately. The other two are running the IDMAX10's. 200watts to each VC on each sub. I've heard people don't really like the butlers for running subs but believe me, they do the job and do it well with no overheating issues and just clear bass.
IDMAX 10D4 ~Running 2 of these. They having amazing low capabilities that allow it to compete w previous 12's I've owned. Currently they are tuned for SQ and just amaze me even with having to compete with my exhaust tone.
IDMAX 12D2 ~ Insane is just it. Running 1000rms to it and it just plays everything cleanly whether the volume is up or down. I haven't really put it to the test as it really is more than I NEED but it's nice to know it's there just in case. note: This is in a pathfinder.
Soundstream PC1000d ~ So far so good, no real issues although the fan is a little noisy on startup. Never even get's warm when pushing the IDMAX12.
Butler Tube Driver Blue 475 ~ Running 3 of these. One pushing my mids which just by hooking it up made them sound a lot warmer and just more distinguished without even tuning. You could just tell the difference immediately. The other two are running the IDMAX10's. 200watts to each VC on each sub. I've heard people don't really like the butlers for running subs but believe me, they do the job and do it well with no overheating issues and just clear bass.
I ran an Alumapro Alchemy 12" off of a tube driver 1500 and it rocked! I did wind up switching to a McIntosh MC443M after a while and noticed a minor diference, but it did not justify the price increase
yeah' but these aint in the same ballpark as the car audio stuff I am referring to. They arent in the standard car audio dimensions or anything. They arent even 2 ways. I mean, I have 6.5 inch drivers on my desktop as we speak. They produce decent bass. But they are in a box. And are specificly mid woofers. They arent in that car audio designe of woofer and tweet together. And I dont consider them car audio speakers. I mean, I could go buy some expensive studio monitor drivers (mid woofers) and say all car audio speakers suck'. Car audio speakers are also made to withstand the elements more. That is one thing none of those are made to do. But like I said, they arent even in the same ballpark, especially if they arent even 2way or standard dimensions.
Last edited by MrFurious : Nov 1st, 2005 at 08:14 PM.
Only one of those that I linked to was designed primarily with home use in mind, both the EU 700s and the XXXs were specifically designed for the car, and both work well IB (in a door). From what I hear Adire is currently working on releasing a "car version" of the extremis, the current one works well IB but it's 8ohm, the new one will probably be 4ohm or possibly dual 4ohm.
I hope by "2-way" you didn't mean coaxials (where the mid and tweet are one unit), those aren't used in anything but the low end "cheapies". Just about any respectable set of speakers will be components, all you need to do to turn those mids into a set of components is buy a pair of tweets and buy or build some crossovers. Hell, the XXX is available as a component set, apparently you didn't see that in the link I provided.
I have no idea what you mean by "the standard car audio dimensions", they're all 6.5-7" which is standard, the only thing that separates them from just about any other 6.5" automotive mid ever made is they have a large mounting depth.
yeah' but these aint in the same ballpark as the car audio stuff I am referring to. They arent in the standard car audio dimensions or anything. They arent even 2 ways. I mean, I have 6.5 inch drivers on my desktop as we speak. They produce decent bass. But they are in a box. And are specificly mid woofers. They arent in that car audio designe of woofer and tweet together. And I dont consider them car audio speakers. I mean, I could go buy some expensive studio monitor drivers (mid woofers) and say all car audio speakers suck'. Car audio speakers are also made to withstand the elements more. That is one thing none of those are made to do. But like I said, they arent even in the same ballpark, especially if they arent even 2way or standard dimensions.
HUH? HOnestly there are car audio specific drivers that can be made to play well within the bass region in a standard infinite baffle door setup. In fact many car audio specific companies make them. With a litle sound deadening you can make this possible. You do not have to spend $400 on components to make this happen.
HUH? HOnestly there are car audio specific drivers that can be made to play well within the bass region in a standard infinite baffle door setup. In fact many car audio specific companies make them. With a litle sound deadening you can make this possible. You do not have to spend $400 on components to make this happen.
I have the Pioneer TS-A1671R 6 1/2" 3-way speakers in the front doors. Bass is not very loud, but it is nice and tight and does not distort like the stock speakers. The highs are quite vibrant, if not ear-hurting when I turn the volume up.
In the rear, I have a pair of Kenwood KFC-1679ie 2-way coaxial speakers. These actually put out pretty good bass. The magnets are a lot larger in diameter than the stock Panasonic/Nissan speakers. I know a lot of people say you don't need rear speakers, but that little extra bass they produce helps the front speakers. These speakers have extra-large tweeters, and the highs are nice and crisp.
I am running all 4 speakers off of a Kenwood Ez-500 head unit that puts out 22W RMS per channel. Recently, I bought an Audiobahn 12-inch passive ported bass cylinder and hooked it up to my old 170-watt (bridged output) Optimus 2-channel amplifier. That thing really shakes my car and makes the license plate rattle.
Since I have the sub in there now, I have set my low-pass filter to 120Hz for the subwoofer. I found that the sub produces the most output like that. Then, I set the High-pass filter to 80Hz so the door and rear-deck speakers can still fill in the gaps but not work too hard. I do not feel I need a separate 4-channel amplifier for the other speakers...my ears can't handle the high frequencies too well, it gets painful after a while. Bass on the other hand is nice. If anything, I probably should have gotten a head unit with the System E's feature because then I could control the front and rear high-pass filter feature separately instead of for all speakers. But for now, I am happy with my system. It did not cost me much to put together, and sounds decent.
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Kenwood KFC-1679ie/ Pioneer TS-A1671R speakers
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