Just wanted to let everyone out there know, I just got some 4 ga cable for my new amp from National Welders Supply. It was $0.50/foot! This cable is exactly the same stranding, gauge, insulation thickness, and flexibilty as the street wires stuff I used in the past, at less than half the price. They had cabling there up to 4/0 (which was $2/foot). Also, they have the big crimp on copper lugs for pennies and an impact crimper was only $8! I have seen this same crimper sold through electronics stores as a special order item for around $50. I will never buy "audio grade power cable" again. Next on the list: some 4/0 jumper cables.
Just wanted to let everyone out there know, I just got some 4 ga cable for my new amp from National Welders Supply. It was $0.50/foot! This cable is exactly the same stranding, gauge, insulation thickness, and flexibilty as the street wires stuff I used in the past, at less than half the price. They had cabling there up to 4/0 (which was $2/foot). Also, they have the big crimp on copper lugs for pennies and an impact crimper was only $8! I have seen this same crimper sold through electronics stores as a special order item for around $50. I will never buy "audio grade power cable" again. Next on the list: some 4/0 jumper cables.
thanx for the input audio shops try to rip ppl off bc they feel there the only ppl that carry the equipment i kno how it is we only have 3 audio shops in town...do you happen to have the addy for a website...
Screw knukonceptz, bad build quality and too expensive for what you get. Everything I've bought from them other than bare wire has broken within a year, this includes rcas, fuses, fuse holders, and distros. They're crap.
I personally use www.darvex.com for everything, normally Stinger, they've had the highest build quality and most reasonable prices out of any wiring/accessory manufacter I've found, this is for speaker wire, power wire, fuse holders, rcas, etc. One thing to keep in mind about welding cable is it's not OFC, if you live in a damp region the wire will oxidize around the connections which means eventually the conduction will be poor and you'll need to replace it, or at least replace the last couple of inches. This is something that will occur over several years though, not overnight. Chances are you'll switch cars or switch setups and need to replace the power wire anyway after a few years, so it probably won't be a problem.
Screw knukonceptz, bad build quality and too expensive for what you get. Everything I've bought from them other than bare wire has broken within a year, this includes rcas, fuses, fuse holders, and distros. They're crap.
I personally use www.darvex.com for everything, normally Stinger, they've had the highest build quality and most reasonable prices out of any wiring/accessory manufacter I've found, this is for speaker wire, power wire, fuse holders, rcas, etc. One thing to keep in mind about welding cable is it's not OFC, if you live in a damp region the wire will oxidize around the connections which means eventually the conduction will be poor and you'll need to replace it, or at least replace the last couple of inches. This is something that will occur over several years though, not overnight. Chances are you'll switch cars or switch setups and need to replace the power wire anyway after a few years, so it probably won't be a problem.
I have to say that while in theory that is correct, after 14 yrs in professional audio I have never heard of it being an issue. The insulation surrounding the cable should not really let oxygen get in. To back this up, I have some 100' 12 ga speaker cables for my PA. I got them roughly 10 years ago. In that time, the exposed copper at the ends has slight corrosion on it, but after cutting one open to make a daisy chain for the subs, the copper inside was bright, shiny and pliable. Personally, I believe ofc is a gimmick to charge more for the wire. To combat corrosion on the connections, some simple sealant like epoxy or silicon will seal out the air.
Right the wire inside the jacket should be fine, just the ends will corrode, which is why I said after a few years you might need to cut back a few inches off of the end. Not much of an issue, but I figured I would throw it out there because, while relatively insignificant, it is a problem welding cable has that "car audio cable" doesn't. Past that, they're pretty much the same. Some welding cable does have flexibility problems (namely the stuff you'll find at places like Home Depot which has 0awg that consists of 5 gigantic strands), but the stuff that I've used has seemed to be almost as good as the higher quality cable, definitely good enough to route through a car.
And anything beats the $8/ft the locals charge for 1/0....
wire end corrosion is why you use solder and shrink wrap on them.
when I make ground kits for people, I crimp the terminals on, solder them to seal the ends, then dab just a bit of RTV silicone or dielectric grease between the insulation and terminal, then shrink wrap over that.
no air in= no corrosion.
OFC copper wire is a gimmick that the audio companies try to use to get people to pay $12 a foot for cable.
BTW, I buy name brand 4awg (stinger, streetwires, ATS, etc) for about $0.50 a foot already.
8 awg s about .25 a foot
1/0 was 1.10 a foot last time I bought any.
I just have to buy it by the 100ft roll in 4 awg and 250/500ft in 8 awg.
BTW, I buy name brand 4awg (stinger, streetwires, ATS, etc) for about $0.50 a foot already.
8 awg s about .25 a foot
1/0 was 1.10 a foot last time I bought any.
I just have to buy it by the 100ft roll in 4 awg and 250/500ft in 8 awg.
local wholesale shop. they supply the local shops with wire, connectors, etc..
have to have a reseller tax ID and set up wholesale account with them to buy from them.
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