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Old Dec 13th, 2007, 04:09 PM   #16 (permalink)
Dlerea
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Originally Posted by darkmagevivi View Post
I'm really into that carbon fiber hood you have; I've been trying to find one that looks just like the stock hood, except CF. Is your alti a 2005? I'm searching the site for an 05 Alt hood, but to no avail.



05+ Altima turbo in '08? Any idea when it is to be released in this upcoming year?

-Darren

My car is a 2005, Will ask the shop that ordered it for me if it was a special order, I am sure they can do the same for you.

As for the Turbo, Stillen says that they should have it by early 08' and told me to give them a call in Jan. to check up on them.. Will keep you posted when I hear more info.
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street scene grilles, top and bottom color coded to my paint... AEM CAI, OEM carbon fiber hood, AXXTION STS, Magnaflow exhaust from the cat back, Stillen grounding kit, Eibach pro kit springs, RO_JA R2-5 wheels(19 x 8.5) with Toyo T1R rubber(245/35/19), stillen cross drilled rotors with hawk pads, stillen strut bar, completely de-badged, and pioneer Avic-D3 head unit with all the bells and whistles.
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Old Dec 13th, 2007, 07:16 PM   #17 (permalink)
thezman
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well most likely the new turbo is going to be even more expensive. in my experience there is no such thing as a low price turbo. especially when you are talking about a add-on for a car that never had a turbo to begin with. If you go to a Cheap shop you will get shoddy workmanship a good way to avoid this is look around the shop is the place fairly clean? is there insulation falling out of the walls? ok there are going to be car parts laying here and there but do they look like they go with the cars near them? If the proprietor is sporting a ragged 3 day beard and looks like he's been wearing the same shirt for 2 days strait go elsewhere. For my car i'm fond of going to shops that do work on the exotics, BMW, Merce, land rover, Jags, etc they tend to be more competent, have clean organized shops all the mechanics have haircuts and trimmed facial hair. They also cost more BUT they stand behind their work, and will do the work in a timely manner, and its done well when they get done with it. (still less than a Dealership though.)
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Old Dec 14th, 2007, 03:21 PM   #18 (permalink)
Dlerea
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Originally Posted by thezman View Post
well most likely the new turbo is going to be even more expensive. in my experience there is no such thing as a low price turbo. especially when you are talking about a add-on for a car that never had a turbo to begin with. If you go to a Cheap shop you will get shoddy workmanship a good way to avoid this is look around the shop is the place fairly clean? is there insulation falling out of the walls? ok there are going to be car parts laying here and there but do they look like they go with the cars near them? If the proprietor is sporting a ragged 3 day beard and looks like he's been wearing the same shirt for 2 days strait go elsewhere. For my car i'm fond of going to shops that do work on the exotics, BMW, Merce, land rover, Jags, etc they tend to be more competent, have clean organized shops all the mechanics have haircuts and trimmed facial hair. They also cost more BUT they stand behind their work, and will do the work in a timely manner, and its done well when they get done with it. (still less than a Dealership though.)
Well said ZMAN, I won't let anyone touch my car that wounldn't treat it with the same respect that I do, it may cost more but the piece of mind knowing that it will be done RIGHT the first time around is well worth it.
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street scene grilles, top and bottom color coded to my paint... AEM CAI, OEM carbon fiber hood, AXXTION STS, Magnaflow exhaust from the cat back, Stillen grounding kit, Eibach pro kit springs, RO_JA R2-5 wheels(19 x 8.5) with Toyo T1R rubber(245/35/19), stillen cross drilled rotors with hawk pads, stillen strut bar, completely de-badged, and pioneer Avic-D3 head unit with all the bells and whistles.
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Old Dec 14th, 2007, 10:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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well i'm pretty sure we treat our cars a great deal differently lol i work mine over from the mechanical side and deal with the visuals last of all but it runs like a screaming banshee from the best rubber i can afford on the ground, all full synth oils and gear lubes, flywheel, brakes (no luck finding aftermarket performance calipers for my Z yet) OH the drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money they are very prone to warping and cracking if used in heavy braking high heat applications, they look good though. You are better off with high quality street performance pads, most reviews i've seen say the porcelins aren't aggressive enough if you really want to you can go to drilled rotors they aren't nearly as weak (less metal removed from the rotor) still prone to cracking etc though. I'm more the backstreet racer type.
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Old Dec 15th, 2007, 04:21 AM   #20 (permalink)
Dlerea
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Zman, remind me not to pay you a compliment... and take some advice, do not judge unless you know what you speak of.
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street scene grilles, top and bottom color coded to my paint... AEM CAI, OEM carbon fiber hood, AXXTION STS, Magnaflow exhaust from the cat back, Stillen grounding kit, Eibach pro kit springs, RO_JA R2-5 wheels(19 x 8.5) with Toyo T1R rubber(245/35/19), stillen cross drilled rotors with hawk pads, stillen strut bar, completely de-badged, and pioneer Avic-D3 head unit with all the bells and whistles.
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Old Dec 15th, 2007, 11:13 AM   #21 (permalink)
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hey don't pay me a compliment. I'm not judging, you have lots of style mods you said your mods are listed in your signature, everything there is either visual or sound related, you speak of respecting your car, I drive the dogsnot out of mine and rebuild or repair when i break it its got dents and scratches all over yours is immaculate i'd bet, to each his own i'm in a 86Z you are in a 200? altima totally different cars for different drivers wasn't trying to bash your style just pointing out the differences. and a spot of advice on the rotors. we both value quality shops though so some things we do have in common.
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Old Dec 27th, 2007, 08:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
darkmagevivi
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Alright, well I'm ready to purchase my CAI for my vehicle, TONIGHT! Any suggestions on where I should look for the best value in purchasing a new Nismo CAI? The Nismo website itself is a bit pricey, but of course reliable. Nismo site charges $320.00 with shipping (284.75 + 34.25shipping). The AAA Nissan Car Shop I found on Ebay charges $276.00 with shipping (256 + 20.00shipping). Anyone know of any better places to look online that are reliable. Also, I'm not a big Ebay person, but the shop I found on ebay seems rather reliable. Had I had any problems with my new CAI, would I still have a warranty from Nismo on it since it is new in box? Do you think the fact that I got it on Ebay would void it or hinder anything?

Last but not least... I hear the Nismo CAI's are best for my 05 Alti, but that they have an oil filter which is ultimately bad on the engine... Someone had told me i could simply get the Nismo CAI and purchase an AEM air filter to put on it... Is this correct, and easy to do? What are my chances of just finding the AEM air filter sold sep?

Thanks again everyone!
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Old Jan 14th, 2008, 05:57 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Exclamation adding cams?

ok here's the thing most ppl don't realize about internals on an engine... you're talking about a SYSTEM. one that won't work if one thing is wrong....
if you're gonna do cams.....
which the whole reason you're changing cams is to a: open valves furter, b: open valves longer, c: change timing when valves open.....the whole reason for changing cams is so that your engine can suck in the correct fuel/air mixture for the compression chamber size/ and compression acheived.
this all ties into what type of pistons you use... how far up the bore (which if it's over bored decreases compression until you change other components like the pistons and valves/valve timing)...and everything else... even down to what type of head gasket you use and the torque put on the head bolts/length of head bolts because even the milimeter width of a headgasket changes the compression ratio.... everything is involved in everything.

taking a brand new car and modding the internals is best because you don't have to worry about crank bearing being old/ oil seals being old... bolts that are old and snapping heads off. but the thing about new cars is that the aftermarket doesn't have a wide variety and plethora of info available compared to an older model car that has a large underground/aftermarket following. so in a new car, the parts and assemblage is stronger, but in some cases it's about as technical guesswork as a race shop trying to tweak an extra half horsepower out of a 900 hp car wi/o losing power in the process of dissassembly/assembly...

but for your application, if you even consider Cams... FIRST CONSIDER THE EFFECTS!!
like i said Cams adjust valve timing, travel, and open-to-close length. they do all this by simply changing the shape of the Cam Lobe (looks like an egg) on the Cam. this lobe rides on the valve lifters and this is how it changes timing, travel, and length.

but don't forget what this does!!!

say you put in some performance racing cams...

now you have different valves workings... which....does what? ..yes, allows for more fuel/air mixture into the chamber and when. but basically this is a 900 waste of money if you don't
~change pistons/piston rod/rings.....and the biggy... the cylinder bore.....all the way down to the crank... and how much windage you get on the crank/whether or not it's balanced again and wieght reduced///which at the same time you'd be wanting to weight reduced the flywheel... or is it weight increase flywheel... i'm currently researching flywheels for this very reason.
~FUEL INJECTORS AND YOUR ENTIRE AIR INTAKE SYSTEM!!!!!......because the Cams allow more fuel/air in (into that enlarged bore.....compounded by the compression and fuel/air velocity mixing as it enters the chamber, and piston travel, headgasket size, and the other biggy and extremely expensive Cylinder Head upgrade.).....but common senser here ppl... if you're puttin on cams that allow for more air/fuel, and your head and block have now been upgraded to compress and have the space in the chamber for this increase in air/fuel... think on what happens when you've increases how much goes in, but the parts that are giving it to the engine aren't upgraded as well.
it's like saying i've got a bucket that holds 1 gallon, but what you're using to pour the gallon into the bucket is only 1/2 a gallon. ....you end up with a gallon bucket with only half a gallon in it................................
so you have to upgrade injectors....fuel pump and pressure regulator....for highend apps a second inline fuel pump... and a hella fuel filter..... the injectors are catagorized for different apps depending on what you did to your block and head. they have longer pulse widths/higher pressure resistance/and larger flow... all things you have to take into calculations of a system your modifying.
now..... the air system. a better air filter... and short intake to get the air there faster/a larger intake to get more to take in effect the larger cams. then you have to realize that with all this... it still may not be enough for the block/head/cams if you don't add forced induction.... and of course if you've already spent this much on trying to add a hundred horses... which would be foolish cuz you might as well do all this the right way and it ending up to be 300-500 horses added on

~~~and with all this, what else happens??? common sense ppl... you literally have a contained explosive device under your hood and your making the explosion bigger.....

~~~ding ding.. it gets hotter... this is when you add HEADERS, this is when you add Cold Air Intake, this is when you add an Oil Cooler, this is when you add *if you were smart enough to realize this when you were boring the cylinders, you also ported the cooling chambers* a better cooling system.... the hoses/the radiator/the waterpump/the cooling ducts.

so you may laugh at the guy that all he added was some racing fuel and a muffler... maybe a cold air intake on a stock engine... but he'll be laughing at you when you add performance cams for 900....2000 for you cuz you don't know how to do it yourself....because you'll have lost power instead of adding it.

if you want to modd an engine... have one sitting on an engine stand for months on end as you slowly buy all the parts you're going to PUT IN AT THE SAME TIME.... and then of course... you'd be even more idiodic if you put them on slowly one at a time instead of a serious build all at once... because you'll have a year's worth of lent inside your block instead of cleaning and preparing the right way, on the right schedule.

and believe me... i left way more info that i wrote down, out of this thread, because there's just too much to write down.

one example... trueing the block, and what ppl call blueprinting....is not usually what the true definition is... blueprinting is every nook and cranny down to the atom... literally... is inspected/overhauled/and strengthened to be able to handle the additional power you're putting in the engine.

it's plain simple. you put perf. Cams on a stock motor.... unless they are aftermarket tested and tried CAMS MADE FOR STOCK MOTORS you're only going to ruin your engine.

you want power for cheap? go buy a better car.
you want power in the car you have for cheap? bolt ons. and ones that don't effect actual engine technical mechanics.
you want power in the car you have the rips up the street?.....

build an engine from block up. ..and extremely maticulously 10th check everything. everything spec/ every torque/ every part/ every mating surface.
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Old Mar 6th, 2008, 09:20 PM   #24 (permalink)
coloRODan_SE-R
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Hi guys im new to. I want to get about 300hp maybe with a smaller turbo kit and also make that ugly gap in the front fender go away!

Wat do you reccomenfd? I am stock exept for the nismo intake. Oh and wats good for exhaust? I dnt want nothing too loud just a lil less restricting.

So i guess wat u thinki sbest for turbo kit, suspension and exhaust?

Thanks alot guys!
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