I did post this problem under General but thought I post the issue here as well. My Maxima with 13k miles on it will experience clutch fade when in heavy stop and go traffic and hot weather. This has occured 3 times. Fading to the point there is only a couple of inches till the pedal hits the floor. Shifting then becomes difficult. I've brought it to the dealer, under warrenty, and they can not duplicate the problem. Hence, there is no problem according to them. They did attempt to bled the master clutch cylinder but they said they found no air or leaks in the system. Fluid all normal. They took it for a long test drive but didn't follow what I asked them to do.... at least drive it in heavy stop and go traffic.I asked that they at least remove the cylinder and inspect it. T They refused to do this because there was no reason to ( can't duplicate problem = there is no problem). I did call the 1-800 number and asked for help and got the same story. Besides 'can't duplicate problem = no problem'. they said spending in more time on the car is like working for free.
Not sure what to do next. I actually understand their view about it's hard to fix a problem they can't see but somewhat upset that they won't at least physically inspect the master cylinder. Any suggestions? Last time it happened, last week, I tried to get it to the dealer but of course, a block before I got there, the problem went away. Even stranger still as I haven't a clue what would suddenly make the problem go away. Starts on the freeway, pull off the exit to the dealership, two blocks later the problem goes away.
Try talking to a manger, if he won't help you. Ask him for a number that you can call for someone at a corperate office and I'm sure it'll change his mind.
Try talking to a manger, if he won't help you. Ask him for a number that you can call for someone at a corperate office and I'm sure it'll change his mind.
Hi SKD... Good advice.... as usual. The only number they would give me is the 1-800 #. Since I know when the problem is most likely to happen, I thought I might plan to do some heavy duty stop and go driving near the dealership to see if I could get the problem to happen. In Ca. we still have some hot days in front of us. I'm also a AAA member, as is the dealership, so I'm making a compliant to AAA as well. More for documentation than anything else.
I had a problem with clutch slippage shortly after I had the tranny rebuilt and clutch replaced by a shop. I complained to them and asked for them to drive the car. the tech took it out and babied it.. never shifted over 2000rpm. ummm, hello?! it's not going to slip unless you're in the power band! I couldn't even merge on the highway without is going up in smoke in 3rd gear, yet they wouldn't do anything about it...
blah blah blah.. I just said f*** 'em and replaced the clutch myself, then disputed the credit card charge by $250 off their insane price of $2000 for a rebuilt tranny.
so yeah, I've been there. for you, the results will hopefully be different than mine. get the service manager involved. if that doesn't work, get the general manager involved. if that doesn't work, get Nissan NA and AAA involved.
I did post this problem under General but thought I post the issue here as well. My Maxima with 13k miles on it will experience clutch fade when in heavy stop and go traffic and hot weather. This has occured 3 times. Fading to the point there is only a couple of inches till the pedal hits the floor. Shifting then becomes difficult. I've brought it to the dealer, under warrenty, and they can not duplicate the problem. Hence, there is no problem according to them. They did attempt to bled the master clutch cylinder but they said they found no air or leaks in the system. Fluid all normal. They took it for a long test drive but didn't follow what I asked them to do.... at least drive it in heavy stop and go traffic.I asked that they at least remove the cylinder and inspect it. T They refused to do this because there was no reason to ( can't duplicate problem = there is no problem). I did call the 1-800 number and asked for help and got the same story. Besides 'can't duplicate problem = no problem'. they said spending in more time on the car is like working for free.
Not sure what to do next. I actually understand their view about it's hard to fix a problem they can't see but somewhat upset that they won't at least physically inspect the master cylinder. Any suggestions? Last time it happened, last week, I tried to get it to the dealer but of course, a block before I got there, the problem went away. Even stranger still as I haven't a clue what would suddenly make the problem go away. Starts on the freeway, pull off the exit to the dealership, two blocks later the problem goes away.
Thought I'd vent and solicit suggestions. Thanks.
Terry
Hello Terry,
This same problem has happened to me about 5 times. I have a 2004. Just 2 weeks ago it happened while I was on the highway so I called my friend to get the number to the dealership to tell them I was on my way.. and just as I got about a mile away from the dealership, it went away. They have looked at it once but told me the same thing, nothing found. This is the type of issues people have before recalls. They can't find anything wrong with something NO person is going to make up, then 2 yrs later a recall. I just LOVE my MAX but if it keeps happening and they continue to refuse to do the inspections I feel need to be done (like you, check every inch of it) then I will have to get rid it. It is bad enough we are somewhat compromising our safety. Not to mention its kind of embarrassing driving with someone and just as they are complimenting your new ride, you have to pull over or take a detour to the dealership. Like with you; it has seemed to do it on hot days. I try to keep mine clean so I thought it may have been water getting somewhere for some reason but then it did it several days after a washing so I excluded that.
its the heat guys. my 300ZX is doing the same thing your max's are. i live in las vegas so ive gotten used to this. the fluid is reaching its melt down point for lack of the technical term. hydralic fluid all has a point, be it temperature or presure, that the fluid will start loosing its .... funtionality. kinda turns to water till it cools down.
when this starts up in my ZX, i pump the clutch pedal a few times and it goes away..... alot of folks use brake fluid in thier clutch master and just like brake fade at high temp the clutch acks the same way. im looking for a stiffer, high temp fluid to use myself.
dude, if the fluid in your clutch hydraulic line is boiling under driving conditions, you have some SEVERE underhood temp problems. clutch lines use standard brake fluid, with a boiling point of over 300F. these kinds of underhood temps are only seen very near the exhaust, and usually only when stopped in heavy traffic. any other time and it's usually no more than about 180F anywhere inside the engine bay, especially where the clutch and fluid lines run in these cars.
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