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A33 2000-2003 Chassis 2000-2003 Maxima

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post #16 of 20 Old Mar 8th, 2005, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Kindfiend
$850 is way too much. The parts alone cost $360 and anyone who can use a wrench can replace them so they cannot justify $390 in labor. I would say go to another dealership or take a half hour to do it yourself. I don't know about finding them for cheaper though, you'll have to search around. Good luck!
yea nissan is ripping people off right now and theres also a tsb bulletin on it sayin that the current ignition coils are INDEED DEFECTIVE but yet they will NOT do a recall on it. if anyone else is having this problem there is a petition on this matter sign it please..make them recall this part that they SAY IS DEFECTIVE.

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post #17 of 20 Old Mar 16th, 2005, 01:26 PM
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Morning Sickness

I own a 96 Maxima and have not had many problems at all. But recently it has had a rough start whenever i start it cold. Then for the first 4-5 minutes driving the idle will be real low and and possibly stall. It has once or twice now, but usually catches itself. Otherwise i keep the RPMs up til it is fine again. It will run fine the rest of the time. I have not taken it in yet for the fear that it is a problem i can fix myself instead of being charged for labor. Any advice as to what it could be?
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post #18 of 20 Old Jul 16th, 2007, 10:29 AM
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2001 Maxima Stalls

Hello Everyone! This is my first post and I am a new member as of about five minutes ago. I am glad I found this forum! It is a relief to know I am not the only one having a similar trouble with my Maxima.

The car ran great until I had the dealership change the spark plugs when the car reached 100K miles. I have been having problems ever since. The car stalls when I am idling at traffic lights. The RPMs just drops really low then dies. The car will start up immediately, but I need to revive the engine to get the gas flowing. It is as if there is no fuel.

I took it back to the dealership and was told I needed to replace the electronic module at a cost of about $700. I told them to forget it. This did not make any sense to me. The car ran great until the spark plugs were changed.

I took the car to another garage and was told the engine is running lean. The mechanic replaced the air filter and cleaned the fuel injectors. This slowed the frequency of stalling, but it still stales on occasion.

I am not a mechanic, but would greatly appreciate any help I can get to resolve this issue. Thanks in advance.
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post #19 of 20 Old Jul 24th, 2007, 12:30 AM
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima and it runs and drives great except for in the morning. The car has one code and it is the p0430, catalyst efficiency bank 2. In the morning the idle is really high and it runs good, but when you put it in drive it will die out sometimes, but it will start right back up. Also, until it warms up it has a wierd sound coming from somewhere on the right side or underneath the car, it sounds like a faint rattiling sound, almost like a bad cat or something??? Also, it just sounds real dry and it sounds like a pulley is grinding at times. These could be numerous problems or just one, but when it warms up it runs really good and it is really quiet and smooth. ALSO, when sitting at a light with it idling even when it is warm, there is like a bubbley sound coming from the right side of the car and you can here it inside, but you can not here it when you get it out, and if ou mce the wheel around it will stop. When you get out of the car you can kind of here it on the right side but you can feel it in the body, it is like puttering, but if you push down on the fender or anything on that side of the car for that matter it stops. Suspension seems fine. Now that was just the engine, when I make a slow sharp turn when pulling out somewhere it sometimes makes a really loud clunk sound once and thats it. It sounds like a piece of metal breaking loose. This car is spooky, please help!!!!!
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post #20 of 20 Old Jul 24th, 2007, 01:06 AM
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The car stalls when I am idling at traffic lights
Clean the idle air control motor, the throttle body, and check vacuum hoses for leaks and replace any leaking/cracked hoses.

Have you measured the MAF and TPS voltage to ensure those are within spec?
Also, it just sounds real dry and it sounds like a pulley is grinding at times.
You sure the idle pulley for your accessory belt isn't going bad?

As we said in your thread, a failing pre-cat or a bad rear bank o2 sensor could explain your code.
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