Replace Clutch in Maxima - Nissan Forum
A33 2000-2003 Chassis 2000-2003 Maxima

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post #1 of 3 Old Jan 24th, 2011, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Location: Cleveland Ohio
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Replace Clutch in Maxima

I havent replaced a clutch for over 10 years, just wondering how hard the 2002 maxima is becasue the dealer is charging 1200 and a few garages are around $1,000 and that is not including machining or replacing the flywheel. just wondereing if anyone has done that on here and what to expect if i havent done this big of a job on a car in a while? the parts are about 350 so id like to keep 700 in my pocket if it will only take me a weekend. also what clutch would you recomend buying. my stock clutch is at 240K miles and it is starting to slip for the first time. i bought the car new so i know that it is the original.


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post #2 of 3 Old Jan 24th, 2011, 01:38 PM
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According to RepairPrice Estimator - Get an Estimate for a Service or Repair on Your Car : RepairPal, it should cost in the range of $816-$997 to replace the clutch assy. in the Cleveland, OH area. Book labor is about 6.5 hours. As far as parts, I would look into seeing if a Nissan Key Value Clutch Kit is available from any Nissan dealer. They typically come with clutch disc, plate, release bearing and clips and pilot bushing. It's all OEM parts offered as a lower cost option that buying the Nissan parts seperately. If you want to look on the aftermarket, Exedy and Valeo are both OEM suppliers of Nissan clutches. The job itself isn't too bad if you have access to a shop with a lift and transmission jack, but it could be a bit tough on the ground. By FWD manual tranny standards, it is a pretty heavy transmission and not one I'd want to "belly lug" on the ground, so to speak. In most cases, the flywheel can be deglazed with some sandpaper and otherwise left alone. Obviously, if there's high spots or cracks, it will need to be resurfaced or replaced. If you do R&R the flywheel, it's important to line up the dowel in the crank with the dowel hole on the flywheel. There are three differant length transmission to engine mounting bolts, so make sure you remember which goes where. TO R&R the trans:


Remove the crankshaft position sensor (POS) from transaxle assembly before separating transaxle from engine.
Be careful not to damage sensor edge.

Remove battery and its bracket.
Remove air duct and air cleaner box with mass air flow sensor.
Remove air breather hose.

Disconnect control cable from transaxle.
Remove control cable mounting bracket.

Remove clutch operating cylinder from transaxle.
Disconnect PNP switch, back-up lamp switch and ground harness connectors.

Remove starter motor from transaxle.
Remove crankshaft position sensor (POS) from transaxle front side.

Drain gear oil from transaxle.
Draw out drive shafts from transaxle.
Support engine of transaxle by placing a jack under oil pan.
CAUTION: Do not place jack under oil pan drain plug.

Remove center member.

Remove LH mount.
Remove bolts securing transaxle.
Lower transaxle while supporting it with a jack.


Tighten LH mount and center member bolts.
Tighten clutch operating cylinder bolts.
Install drive shafts.
Tighten all transaxle bolts and any part removed.
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post #3 of 3 Old Jan 28th, 2011, 07:57 PM
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You'll need a way to hold the engine up since to get the trans out you'll be removing all but one of the motor mounts. I'm all for everyone doing there own work so they have more respect for there cars but this one can get a little dangerous for a DIY'er.

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