Engine "kicks" when car is stopped - Nissan Forum
A32 1995-1999 Chassis 1995-1999 Maxima

 
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post #1 of 15 Old Jan 7th, 2012, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Engine "kicks" when car is stopped

I have a 1997 Maxima (I am not the original owner). About 3-4 months ago I started to experience my engine kicking when I am stopped and in drive (when its in park or neutral it goes away). I changed my spark plugs and the problem went away for 2-3 weeks but it has started again. I have also realized that the car stumbles/hesitates when accelerating sometimes and my car seems to consume for fuel than it should.

What do you guys think? Any help or advice would be highly appreciated.

Thanks

Martin
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post #2 of 15 Old Jan 8th, 2012, 01:35 AM
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i have similar issue but my car goes to the extent of stalling at idle. . check air flow sensor ignition leads and dizzy cap . . most likly air flow sensor though . .
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post #3 of 15 Old Jan 8th, 2012, 10:33 AM
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Could be due to a very lean fuel mixture. Perform an ECU code readout to check for possible fault codes. Make sure that you're running the correct spark plugs. Check for dirty air filter. Check for correct ignition timing. Check for a major intake system vacuum leak.

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post #4 of 15 Old Jan 8th, 2012, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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thanks xx_sally, I was thinking it could be the MAF but I wasnt too sure, Ill check that out.

And thanks to you too rogoman, I am sure that the spark plugs are the correct ones and I have checked the air filter and its in good condition. Ill also check the timing and intake system.

Could my problems also be because of dirty fuel injectors or bad ignition coils to?
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post #5 of 15 Old Jan 9th, 2012, 09:55 AM
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Dirty fuel injectors could definitely be causing your problem. If one or more injectors are leaking, that will definitely hurt MPG. Run some good injection cleaner, like Techron or Redline SL-1, through the system; Give the cleaner about a week or two to do it's job.

The testing of ignition coil packs should be done with diagnostic oscilloscopes that many shops have.

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post #6 of 15 Old Jan 10th, 2012, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Ok yea because my MPG is pretty bad right now and I know my car shouldn't take up that much gas.

And there's one more problem that I have with my car. It has to do with the RPM gauge, the needle will jump exactly like the one in this video. It happens all the time, once in a while it goes back to normal but only for a while.


I'm no car expert so I'm sorry if it's a stupid question but I just want to find out what is causing the needle to jump almost randomly and if the problem is affecting my car in any other way other than just messing up the RPM gauge.
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post #7 of 15 Old Jan 11th, 2012, 11:11 PM
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The tach, I believe is part of a unified meter control unit. A signal from the ECU is sent directly to the control unit. Re-seat the harness connectors at the ECU and the unified meter control unit; if still no-good, then the control unit may be bad.

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post #8 of 15 Old Jan 15th, 2012, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks for all the help rogoman. I'll check in on that
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post #9 of 15 Old Jan 15th, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Unified meters weren't used until a little later. The tachometer itself is likely the culprit. There were two available: one for the SE models (24825-0L710) and one for the GXE/GLE models (24825-40U00). The bad news is that either one MSRP's for over $550. Purchase it from an online Nissan dealer and you'd probably save $100 or more. It might be worth contacting some of the companies that do instrument cluster repairs and see if they could repair your tachometer. What do you got to lose other than the time to make a phone call or send an e-mail?

As far as the "engine kicking," I would highly suspect an ignition coil issue. Like rogoman says, an oscilloscope would be the best tool to use for testing them.
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post #10 of 15 Old Jan 15th, 2012, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Haha wow $550 is way too much for a tachometer. And yea you're right, I'd rather look for a company that repairs that kind of stuff, but I'll most likely go to a junkyard and remove the tachometer from a 4th gen. maxima there and get it for a lot cheaper.

I still haven't checked out the ignition coils but I'll get to it soon, I'm also planning on cleaning my fuel injectors since they could be part of the problem, just haven't had the money or the time.

And thanks for all the help
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post #11 of 15 Old Feb 17th, 2012, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so earlier this week I realized that I have a cylinder 5 misfire which I believe is causing my engine to "kick." I have cleaned my fuel injectors so I'm suspecting its the ignition coil. I have tried to switch my ignition coils from cylinder 3 to 5 and cylinder 5 to 3, to see if it really is my coil. But when removing the coil from cylinder 5, the rubber boot came off the coil and stayed connected to the spark plug!

So I just put the ignition coils back into their original spot. Is there any way I can reach that rubber boot? I have tried needle nosed pliers and improvised tools, but to no avail.

I would appreciate any help or advice.

Martin
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post #12 of 15 Old Feb 18th, 2012, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amp1114 View Post
So I just put the ignition coils back into their original spot. Is there any way I can reach that rubber boot? I have tried needle nosed pliers and improvised tools, but to no avail.

I would appreciate any help or advice.

Martin
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post #13 of 15 Old Feb 21st, 2012, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks, I'll buy it later this month and hopefully get that rubber boot out with no problem.
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post #14 of 15 Old Feb 21st, 2012, 11:42 PM
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I don't know if you're going to be able to get that tool between the coil boot and the inside of the spark plug well? Long, needle nose pliers is what I've always used; twist the boot as you pull up to try and "break the seal" between the boot and the spark plug. Use a little dab of silicone grease inside of the new boot to prevent this from happening in the future. I've also seen this occur when oil has leaked past the spark plug tube seals and caused the coil boot to swell up. If you notice the old boot is wet with oil, you'll need to remove the valve cover and replace those seals.
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post #15 of 15 Old Feb 25th, 2012, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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yea i guess I'll go buy some longer needle nose pliers and try to take the rubber boot out again and hopefully there is no oil leak...

Thanks for the help
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