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Your pop may have been the failure of the flexible line that connects your clutch slave cylinder to the hard lines that run down the firewall from the clutch master cylinder. Several people have posted that their flexible line was in tough shape, I know that mine was at 150,000 miles. The heat shield that protects the rubber line from the passenger side exhaust pipe holds moisture that corrodes the end fittings. The steel end fitting on my hose was nearly completely rusted away. The hose was under $30 from Nissan and I think that it is available through Autozone’s web site.
If this or any other hydraulic line fails you won’t be able to disengage your clutch. If a broken line is the cause of your clutch pedal issue, replace the line, not the clutch master and slave cylinders. When I replaced my flexible line I did spend $20 on the kits to rebuild the clutch master and slave cylinders. That said, the original seals looked really good. I recommend re-building over re-placing. It is really easy to do and unless you have water in your clutch fluid that has caused corrosion in the cylinders or your cylinder walls are scored, new seals are all that you really need anyway.
As for your throw out bearing, replace it along with the pilot bushing, pressure plate and friction disc. The transmission needs to be pulled for every one of these items. You should also spend $35 to have your flywheel resurfaced and check your rear main seal. Most likely it’s not leaking but if it is, go ahead and replace while you have your transmission out of the truck.
I replaced my clutch set over two nights. I needed the second night because I had my flywheel resurfaced at a local transmission shop.
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