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Originally Posted by Gsolo
actually there is no diagnostic tool to plug into on these cars  that would make things to simple. I've heard that these relays pop before the ECU does so hopefully....but you never know. if its the ecu let me know i might have an extra one but i'm not sure |
Here's an update:
What the shop is telling me is that the fuel pump itself is bad. What's really weird is that they say that they were able to supply power to it and get the motor to spin, so the actual mechanical part of the pump is bad, not the electrical part. Now it seems like a pretty big coincidence that the pump happened to go bad not only the same day that the battery went dead, but at the same time the polarity was reversed on the jumper cables.
What's worse is that they're telling me that the in-tank fuel pump is very hard to find and costs $400. So it will be over $600 for parts and labor to replace it, and that doesn't even count the $110 they've already charged for diagnostics.
AND THEY CAN'T EVEN TELL ME FOR SURE IF IT WILL FIX IT!!
I asked them if they could tell me whether or not the injectors are even trying to fire (you should be able to hear them), and they couldn't tell me.
What they said they could do is hook it up to the injector service machine (which will cost another $50), which will bypass the fuel pump entirely and will tell us if the rest of the electrical system is working.
Also, this particular stanza for some reason doesn't have a fuel pump access panel, so they have to pull the fuel tank in order to change the pump.