toolapcfan

I agree, 4 gauge is kind of small considering your starter can pull a lot of current. I would say go with something nice and thick like 2. I would buy brass ring terminals and solder them to the wire. I did this with my 4 gauge stereo wire, I heated the terminal up with a torch after I put flux in it, then filled the cup half full of solder, and quickly slipped the stripped 4 gauge into it while it was melted. Once it cooled off I put a big tube of shrink tubing around the joint and heated it up with a lighter. A nice alternative to battery relocation is to get one of those dinky ass, lightweight odyssey batteries. If you do decide to do the battery relocation, I'd put a big ass fuse holder right by the battery and another in the engine compartment where you connect the cable to the OEM starter cable and other electical cable. I don't know what the locked motor amperage of our starters is, but you'd want to know that so you can use the right fuse size, and remember that fuses are underrated, and you want to get a fuse size that is as close as you can get to the locked motor amps of the starter, you don't want it to take long to blow, because you can fry wiring before the fuse blows. You can also buy high amperage circuit breakers at stereo shops and those work nice, as you can use them as a switch to cut battery power while doing electrical mods. I'd find some sort of isolated terminal that you can bolt to something, and use that connect the OEM wires in the engine compartment to the cable running back to the battery.

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Rob '93 SE-R

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