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RockyB · Aug 12th, 2003, 07:49 PM

To pull cv shaft out first loosen your lug nuts, safely jack the car up(use jack stands to securely make sure it won't slip and fall), remove your tire, in the middle of your hub assembly there is a nut with a cotter pin, remove the cotter pin, if you have access to a air gun use a 30mm or 32mm axle nut socket to remove the nut. If you don't have access to a air gun, before you jack the car up or even take the tire off, have the car on the ground, you should be able to see the cotter pin and axle nut. Remove the cotter pin and using a breaker bar with the axle nut socket loosen the nut. Anyway, after the nut is out take some WD-40 and spray around the splines on the cv shaft. Now, there are 2 ways to remove the shaft: My way to to remove both strut nut and bolt, take a hammer and gently tap the strut to release it from the spindle. Take a hammer and tap on the shaft where the axle nut was to pop it out of the spindle. You might have to turn the spindle to clear it/get it out. Once that is done, crawl underneath to where the shaft enters the transaxle. Take a long screwdriver or pry bar and position it between the trans and cv joint and pop it out. The other way is to not take the bolts out of the strut and try to remove the lower balljoint nut and then try to seperate the lower balljoint from the spindle, which I believe is to hard. If the strut are stock you don't have to worry about the alignment because it won't have caster adjustment or is it camber adjustment. Assembly is pretty much the same. I hope this helps.
Rocky
P.S. you don't really need to remove the outter tie rod end from the spindle. It usually takes me about 30 min. at work on a lift to pull a cv shaft and replace it on a b12. Also, no need to remove the rotor or caliper.

Aug 12th, 2003, 07:49 PM	#13 (permalink)
RockyB Nissan Enthusiast Join Date: May 2002 Location: Hartford, CT Posts: 149	To pull cv shaft out first loosen your lug nuts, safely jack the car up(use jack stands to securely make sure it won't slip and fall), remove your tire, in the middle of your hub assembly there is a nut with a cotter pin, remove the cotter pin, if you have access to a air gun use a 30mm or 32mm axle nut socket to remove the nut. If you don't have access to a air gun, before you jack the car up or even take the tire off, have the car on the ground, you should be able to see the cotter pin and axle nut. Remove the cotter pin and using a breaker bar with the axle nut socket loosen the nut. Anyway, after the nut is out take some WD-40 and spray around the splines on the cv shaft. Now, there are 2 ways to remove the shaft: My way to to remove both strut nut and bolt, take a hammer and gently tap the strut to release it from the spindle. Take a hammer and tap on the shaft where the axle nut was to pop it out of the spindle. You might have to turn the spindle to clear it/get it out. Once that is done, crawl underneath to where the shaft enters the transaxle. Take a long screwdriver or pry bar and position it between the trans and cv joint and pop it out. The other way is to not take the bolts out of the strut and try to remove the lower balljoint nut and then try to seperate the lower balljoint from the spindle, which I believe is to hard. If the strut are stock you don't have to worry about the alignment because it won't have caster adjustment or is it camber adjustment. Assembly is pretty much the same. I hope this helps. Rocky P.S. you don't really need to remove the outter tie rod end from the spindle. It usually takes me about 30 min. at work on a lift to pull a cv shaft and replace it on a b12. Also, no need to remove the rotor or caliper. __________________ 1987 B12 possible JDM RRC swap - Currently has a blown engine 1991 B13 Se-r - JDM swap - finished 12-7-03 Member since August 2000 Last edited by RockyB : Aug 12th, 2003 at 07:54 PM.