Quote:
Originally posted by KSipmann
A note about the butterfly valves: Yes, you can make the manifold run at max volume all the time by zip tying the cable to the actuator open, however you won't notice any performance gains (realistically you should get less low end torque).
It's meant to be there for a reason. If you disconnect it, the intake will function more like a regular multi-valve intake. Your basically creating a fixed geometry intake manifold by doing this mod. If the butterfly valves are tied to be left open partially or all the way, your creating a slower charge motion, which means the flame spreads slower, resulting in sluggish burn rates and lower engine output.
And since the actuator is controlled by vacuum pressure and ECU, wouldn't you think that by modifiying it to stay partically or fully open, that it may send a different signal back to the ECU causing you some problems?
As for the switch idea, I don't think it'd be beneficial personally, not very practical for a daily driver. If your in the middle of a race, you need to be focusing on the road. Not to mention human error, I mean if you don't flip the switch at the correct time, your forcing your engine to breath through a restricted intake setup at high RPM's. That spells lower engine output.
This of course is just my 2 cents...
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The switch I had installed was electronically actuated by a signal off the crankshaft position sensor. You can select the RPM you want it to activate at beforehand. You don't "flip" the switch when you want it on. It is completely automated. All it is doing is changing the switch point on the car. Stock it switches at 5000 rpm. The switch will make it switch at any RPM that you select. So let's say you put in 4000 RPM. Then the switch switches at 4000 RPM automatically. You don't have to "think" about anything.
The idea of the switch is not to gain more peak HP or Torque. It is to gain more HP lower in the curve. Between 4000 RPM and 5000 RPM, if the secondaries were open, you would make more HP between those points, and roughly the same torque. I don't know exact numbers until I dyno. But the point is, down low you are not changing the torque or HP, and up top you are not either. This is middle range stuff you are changing. And it *is* an increase, I swear. I guess I'll have to dyno to show actual numbers. But I swear it will work they way I picture. Right now I have to wait to get a new switch though, one that is not defective
