im currently rebuilding the brakes on a 1983 280 zx n/a i got every thing rebuilt and had every thing to the bleeding stage...i bench bleed the master cyclinder and then put it on my car like the scamatics said. I then put it on my car and went around bleeding untill i reached the front...i would not receive any fluid to my front brakes...i then tryed to rebleed the master cylinder on the car just to find out that the bleeder screw closest to the nose of the car (i think the primary piston) wouldnt bleed. I then took off the master cyclinder and made sure that it was rebuilt correctly, it was, so i rebuilt it yet again and put it back on the car just to have it not bleeding at all...if anyone has any ansers on what i need to do PLEASE reply or im me on AIM at --- blah9407 thanks
The bleeder port itself could be clogged. You'll have to remove the entire zirc fitting and make sure it's not blocked by dirt or gravel. The line could also be clogged. Remove the rubber hose portion and make sure it's not blocked, either visually, by blowing through it, or using compressed air. Same with the metal line between the master cylinder and the rubber hose portion. It's a step by step process. Eliminate possibilities and move on.
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
i did i took it totally apart, and washed it out with a parts washer then blew air through it. i took everything off and looked it was all clear. i dont wanna have to buy a new master cyclinder sence they are about 140 dollars and im not made of money like that....
A master cylinder for a 280Z is $140? Where the heck do you shop. I found 2 online for less than $50 in about 2 minutes time. Word to the wise, expensive does not necessarily mean better. I've seen $10 water pump last 10 years and $20 starters about that long. Buy something cheap to get the system functional again, no need to waste money on expensive parts. There are certain minimum standards that every part must built according to, even the cheapest parts meet those standards and should be safe and reliable.
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
I know on 70-80s American cars there is a splitter valve located on the firewall below and maybe off to the side of the master cylinder. It's supposed to close off one side of the system if there is a leak. A plunger inside moves to the side with the pressure loss and closes it off. This might be the case here, I'd suggest trying to find and reset that valve before you get another master cylinder.
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
im currently rebuilding the brakes on a 1983 280 zx n/a i got every thing rebuilt and had every thing to the bleeding stage...i bench bleed the master cyclinder and then put it on my car like the scamatics said. I then put it on my car and went around bleeding untill i reached the front...i would not receive any fluid to my front brakes...i then tryed to rebleed the master cylinder on the car just to find out that the bleeder screw closest to the nose of the car (i think the primary piston) wouldnt bleed. I then took off the master cyclinder and made sure that it was rebuilt correctly, it was, so i rebuilt it yet again and put it back on the car just to have it not bleeding at all...if anyone has any ansers on what i need to do PLEASE reply or im me on AIM at --- blah9407 thanks
sometimes when redoing the brakes you need to gravety bleed the lines to get it going and i don't know were you are getting your master from but the local auto parts here sells them for $39 & $9 core.
yea i know thats bull shit i went to the main one and there like theres cores charge and its about 140 i was like WHAT...cause my teacher had to get a new one and it was $8. but ok ill look some more
ok, the reason i had to get another one is because of the age of it. Where the old seals had sat there so long it had ate away at the aluminum around it.
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