NissanForums.com :: Nissan Forum - View Single Post - blownb310's e-series modification lists

Lazarus_023 · Jun 9th, 2003, 12:34 AM

ok... there is a LOT of good info in this thread...

as opposed to reading the entire thing (i'm LaZ)... i'm gonna tell you what i did with my '83 B11...

ENGINE (E15):
1) plugged all the emissions crap on the intake (egr, etc.) the EGR can be drilled and tapped for pipe plugs, or you can drill it out and epoxy copper pipe caps in place. i also eliminated the fuel preheater thingy between the carb and manifold.

2) installed the carb off'n a 1980 datsun 210 w/ A14 (BOLT for BOLT!) this eliminates all the ECC crap, although the fuel cut-off solenoid is still there (attach to "on" position of ignition system...). NOTE: with a little effort (that i didn't want to expend, i'm LaZ) you can adapt an older datsun 510 (i think) carb to an E16 manifold... the main issue is the throttle linkage)

3) used the stock exhaust manifold (i had the earlier 2-way catalytic converter, not the manifold-mounted 3-way cat...) with the egr ports plugged.

4) used the stock front downpipe connector, but REMOVED the stock down-pipe (1" dia, i think) from the inside of the connector and replaced it with something that fit nicely over the OUTSIDE of the connector (1-1/2" i think...) the rest of the exhaust was custom bent, w/ a baffled muffler from a small john deere tractor (this was a little raspy... not like a fart-pipe... i mean RASPY.)

5) ENGINE NOTES: my engine was an MPG model... higher compression, semi-hemispherical head, and pistons like the E15T... as well as the 2-way caty-converter...

TRANSMISSION:
heh. got lucky on this one... find a 1982 datsun 310 5-spd w/ an E-series engine. get the gearbox. what do you think of a 4.01 1st gear w/ a 4.52 final drive? well, you'd better like it. not a damn thing in the world easier to launch... rev to 6000, sidestep the clutch, and the engine'll spin till the car catches up... not too long of a wait, in an 1800 lb car.... you will probably never run out of top end either, with a NA E-series...

SUSPENSION:
1) Front (ONLY WORKS FOR MANUAL TRANS...): go to the local parts store. get the heaviest-dutiest coils and struts you can get for a B11 sentra WITH AUTO TRANS AND A/C (auto trans and a/c were good for over 100 pounds on a B11, and the springs were made to reflect that). you will have to clip somewhere between 1 and 2 coils off the short end of the spring (the end of the spring where the coils are closer together), depending on the manufacturer... it may take a few tries of install-remove-clip-reinstall, so suit your tastes on this, but don't take it too far, as the stock struts can't handle too large of a drop (i'd say about 1" below stock, max...)

2) Rear (Only works well with B11 sedans, works OK for B11 coupes...): Go to the local parts store. get the heaviest-dutiest coils and shox you can get for a B11 sentra STATION WAGON (Station wagon was good for 150-200 lbs on a B11). you will have to do some more clipping to get your ride-height right... try to lower the rear a little less than the front... this will actually help your downforce at speed... (at about 70 mph you'll feel the effect...)

3) Swaybars: Nissan Motorsports all the way.... get a NISMO catalog, order the swaybar kit front and rear... it doesn't get much better than an 1-1/8" front and a 7/8" rear bar...

4) SUSPENSION NOTES:
a) "clipping" springs is a misnomer... it's actually best done with an angle grinder or metal cut-off saw. a cutting torch may be used, but you must be VERY careful to not over-heat the spring and ruin the temper, or the spring will break later...
b) This will ride rough... WAY ROUGH. Make sure you're sure about doing this... it'll seriously detract from the ride quality and cause unbelieveable squeaks and rattles in the interior...
c) you can NOT lower the ride height much more than 1" MAX with the "stock replacement" struts and shox... they will bottom out and beat you and your car to death.
d) If the free height of the rear springs is significantly lower than the stock springs, you will have to attach them to the spring towers and control arms. Cable clamps work well for this... If you don't know about this PLEASE ASK... you will look silly if your springs fall out (and they will...).

TO BE CONTINUED...

Jun 9th, 2003, 12:34 AM	#68 (permalink)
Lazarus_023 t3h r0XX0r!! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Milwaukee Posts: 679	ok... there is a LOT of good info in this thread... as opposed to reading the entire thing (i'm LaZ)... i'm gonna tell you what i did with my '83 B11... ENGINE (E15): 1) plugged all the emissions crap on the intake (egr, etc.) the EGR can be drilled and tapped for pipe plugs, or you can drill it out and epoxy copper pipe caps in place. i also eliminated the fuel preheater thingy between the carb and manifold. 2) installed the carb off'n a 1980 datsun 210 w/ A14 (BOLT for BOLT!) this eliminates all the ECC crap, although the fuel cut-off solenoid is still there (attach to "on" position of ignition system...). NOTE: with a little effort (that i didn't want to expend, i'm LaZ) you can adapt an older datsun 510 (i think) carb to an E16 manifold... the main issue is the throttle linkage) 3) used the stock exhaust manifold (i had the earlier 2-way catalytic converter, not the manifold-mounted 3-way cat...) with the egr ports plugged. 4) used the stock front downpipe connector, but REMOVED the stock down-pipe (1" dia, i think) from the inside of the connector and replaced it with something that fit nicely over the OUTSIDE of the connector (1-1/2" i think...) the rest of the exhaust was custom bent, w/ a baffled muffler from a small john deere tractor (this was a little raspy... not like a fart-pipe... i mean RASPY.) 5) ENGINE NOTES: my engine was an MPG model... higher compression, semi-hemispherical head, and pistons like the E15T... as well as the 2-way caty-converter... TRANSMISSION: heh. got lucky on this one... find a 1982 datsun 310 5-spd w/ an E-series engine. get the gearbox. what do you think of a 4.01 1st gear w/ a 4.52 final drive? well, you'd better like it. not a damn thing in the world easier to launch... rev to 6000, sidestep the clutch, and the engine'll spin till the car catches up... not too long of a wait, in an 1800 lb car.... you will probably never run out of top end either, with a NA E-series... SUSPENSION: 1) Front (ONLY WORKS FOR MANUAL TRANS...): go to the local parts store. get the heaviest-dutiest coils and struts you can get for a B11 sentra WITH AUTO TRANS AND A/C (auto trans and a/c were good for over 100 pounds on a B11, and the springs were made to reflect that). you will have to clip somewhere between 1 and 2 coils off the short end of the spring (the end of the spring where the coils are closer together), depending on the manufacturer... it may take a few tries of install-remove-clip-reinstall, so suit your tastes on this, but don't take it too far, as the stock struts can't handle too large of a drop (i'd say about 1" below stock, max...) 2) Rear (Only works well with B11 sedans, works OK for B11 coupes...): Go to the local parts store. get the heaviest-dutiest coils and shox you can get for a B11 sentra STATION WAGON (Station wagon was good for 150-200 lbs on a B11). you will have to do some more clipping to get your ride-height right... try to lower the rear a little less than the front... this will actually help your downforce at speed... (at about 70 mph you'll feel the effect...) 3) Swaybars: Nissan Motorsports all the way.... get a NISMO catalog, order the swaybar kit front and rear... it doesn't get much better than an 1-1/8" front and a 7/8" rear bar... 4) SUSPENSION NOTES: a) "clipping" springs is a misnomer... it's actually best done with an angle grinder or metal cut-off saw. a cutting torch may be used, but you must be VERY careful to not over-heat the spring and ruin the temper, or the spring will break later... b) This will ride rough... WAY ROUGH. Make sure you're sure about doing this... it'll seriously detract from the ride quality and cause unbelieveable squeaks and rattles in the interior... c) you can NOT lower the ride height much more than 1" MAX with the "stock replacement" struts and shox... they will bottom out and beat you and your car to death. d) If the free height of the rear springs is significantly lower than the stock springs, you will have to attach them to the spring towers and control arms. Cable clamps work well for this... If you don't know about this PLEASE ASK... you will look silly if your springs fall out (and they will...). TO BE CONTINUED... __________________ 's like shootin' 'tards in a bucket. Last edited by Lazarus_023 : Jun 9th, 2003 at 01:15 AM.