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Originally posted by SE-RMadness
I had plans on a T28. BUt I know a BBDET holds a Turbo better the a Regular DE it's why I was looking more into the BBDET but the Bolt on Turbo seem so much easyer and I want more HP With the least Engine Problems. And I have NO plans what so ever to be running anything over 91 Octaine. What do water Injection do? Would I need anyhting more then the Engine to have the Swap done? Like extra parts? Where would I get the Clutch from and other needed parts? I'm a Person who like to get things out of the way in one shot. 
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Too many questions too answer here. Search the SE-R mailing list archives for a lot of answers. There are a whole bunch of parts that you'll need. As far as not running anything more than 91 octane... well then you'll have to decide how much HP you want, and that will decide for you which kind of engine to install a turbo on. if you want more than 300 HP, and you're not planning on replacing your internal engine components, then I suggest a DET. 300 wheel HP on a stock DE will be detonation city.
Water injection sprays a fine mist of water into your intake piping before it goes into the motor. This makes the intake charge denser and cooler, which allows you to run more boost. From what I know about it, water injection will allow you to run a couple, maybe 3 more psi of boost on the street, using the same 91 octane gas. That of course means a lot of HP. if you run a regular DE motor I strongly suggest using water injection unless you're keeping the HP levels under 280. Even then it might be nice as an added safeguard.
Bigger injectors alone will not prevent detonation. They'll simply prevent you from leaning out, assuming your engine management is set up to handle them. You have to have big injectors in order to run 300+ hp, but you can detonate just as easily. Aaron LaBeau is on a stock DE, he has the same turbo kit I do, with 72 lb. injectors and a Cobra MAF. He can easily handle well over 400 HP, except he can't turn the boost up that high because he'll detonate. He ran 18 psi at the last dyno day, but that was on C16 race gas, and he made about 370 wheel HP. You could have injectors the size of Coke bottles and it wouldn't prevent you from detonating, unless you're just dumping fuel into the combustion chamber and running super rich, in which case that's just poor tuning and you're not making nearly the HP you could be.
Detonation can only be prevented by doing things which lower the temperature in the combustion chamber, or in very rare cases, increasing the engine speed and consequently the ignition sequence which will prevent detonation from occuring by simply igniting before detonation has a chance to take place.
Things that will lower the temp in the combustion chamber are things like cooling the intake charge: the lower the temperature of the incoming air, the cooler the resulting chamber temp will be. You can do this by adding an intercooler, which, if efficient enough, can reduce the superhot air stream from the turbo's compressor down to near-ambient temps before it goes into the motor. If you put a water injection system after the intercooler and before the intake manifold, you can cool the air down even more.
Other things might be using higher octane gas, retarding your ignition timing, turning down the boost (less boost = less pressure = less heat) and lowering the compression ratio of your engine, say from 9.5:1 to 8.5:1, or 8.3:1. Higher compression is directly related to higher heat levels in the combustion chamber. That's why lower compression allows you to run more boost, and it's why water injection also allows you to run more boost.
Every engine has a "detonation point", where the temps get too hot and you start detonating. In order to have more HP without detonating, you must take steps to reduce the temperature of the combustion chamber. That's the bottom line. Whether you do it through a good intercooler and water injection, or by lowering your compression ratio, or both, or something else, is up to you.