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Old Apr 16th, 2009, 03:26 PM   #26 (permalink)
woodb01
NissanForums Newbie
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
Carrier Bearing - tips and tricks on replacement...

You definitely want to replace bad carrier bearings before you end up having to replace worn out U-Joints (from excessive binding and flexing) and before you have to replace transmission or rear-end bearings. That can be very, very painful and expensive.

I've had to replace 2 of these things. 1 was on a 1987 Hardbody 4x4 and the other on a 92 pathfinder (2wd).

To replace them they are a ROYAL PAIN in the backside. They end up being pressed on because of the significant amount of torque requirement to bolt down the yolk.

Here is what I learned in the process. If you can do it yourself, then do it! Also, when you separate the drive line, because it is a 2 peice, MAKE SURE YOU MARK IT! The splines MUST go back into the same location or the drive shaft may not be properly balanced and you could end up with a lot of vibration at higher road speeds (above 45 - 50 mph).

Also, when replacing them, mine had 2 or 3 slots in them (it's been several years ago). Go to HomeDepot and buy some 100% pure SILICONE caulking. Put a good squirt of silicone in each of the holes but don't fill the entire void. Let it cure for at least 48 hours. As a result they will last MUCH longer.

However, the flexibility in the stock rubber carrier helps to give it more of a smooth, car-like ride but the carrier bearing itself works well to help distribute some of the stresses and loads on a truck. Especially a 4x4.

If you put the silicone in and let it cure properly it will not be as flexible, but it will be much more durable. As long as your drive shaft is well-balanced it will help with any off roading or heavy duty hauling.

Good luck if you take it on yourself. I never had a dealer or garage do mine, but if you did you can STILL use the silicone to support it but you will not be able to drive it for 2 or 3 days.

To do that, just unbolt the carrier bearing from the mount and it will easily rotate. Put the silicone in the holes and then let it sit UNMOUNTED for 2 -3 days to cure. Then mount it back in. You want it unmounted to take the weight / load off the rubber carrier while the silicone is curing. That way it cures evenly without a "squat" position in it.

Those are my suggestions besed on my experience. Use them at your own risk and good luck!

2008 Red Nismo Crew Cab 4x4
2.5" lift / leveling kit.
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