Quote:
Originally Posted by asleepz
Well I got an alignment whenever I put my new shocks on the rear and had all four wheels done of course. Bad thing was I never got print out sheets before and after. (Mistake on my part)
I've got the outside edge of the front tires wearing like crazy and the inside of the tire wearing like crazy on the back end.
Now I know the camber isn't adjustable on the rear end but what is a best way of tackling it. Is there any other way than slotting the rear crossmemeber?
As for the front I would assume the camber is adjustable up front. If not let me know.
What should I do guys, I mean I probably haven't put 10000 miles on my Z and half of my tires are pretty close to being at the end of their specs.
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Hi
The VIN number helps in questions like these.
The myriad of differences between models is huge.
In short - wheel alignment is a black art and is subject to testing and preferences.
Racing or street use?? Massive difference in settings, you should state which your after becuase the opposite settings are generally used.
Note: if you have changed any component from the stock version of the number than specifications will go out for all specs i.e. change rim an you change camber/toe and castor to some degree. Bear this is mind if checking coil sizes/ heights etc
Alignment angles were tested by Nissan with high standards for optimal settings, they locked the camber in at the rear so idiot mechanics could not get it wrong in aligning.
Testing is beyond our normal alignment procedure, whilst we should align with what you carry in the car, such as full fuel tank, spare tyre, jack and passenger etc (I sit in my car for an alignment/ or put weight in) Nissan actually tested right down to tyre pressure and tyre temperature etc for the optimal settings for each model ie GL / Turbo / Motor etc.
Zbum will give you the exact settings for the model, however this is based on a stock version of the model you have, generally more torque in car stronger components were used.
You did not state whether you had adjustable suspension your year model had this feature? It will make a difference obviously.
In short - they stuffed up the front! (or thought you were heading to a tight race track for 5 laps)
Yes the front is adjustable in camber/castor and toe
The rear is not adjustable in camber for the reasons outlined above
The rear can only be adjusted in castor/ toe
If the rear tyres are as bad as you say, the real question is when you look at the back of the car, can you see the camber? If this is the case then you definately have sagging springs or the wrong size or a change such as rim size, coils are common to sag after 20 years, and you will need to get new ones - do not buy another set of used (saggy springs), again though this depends on use. Poly should only be used if you are after performance they will stiffen the coils a lot, but they can squeak as well but that is nothing a bit of soap cant fix. The reason I say this is becuase the ride is effected and you will have harder vibrations against the mounts and if your intention is to just use as a economical car with comfy ride then rubber will do. Poly will also add a little lift obviously (toughter in compression) Springs are a huge issue and the exact specifications to the model should be sought as there are about 18 to choose from. If you are racing around corners you may want to look at linear coil types as they are stiffer, hot wound coil springs are better as they last longer in spring, hard to get cold now anyway. Generally speaking if you replace your coils then you recondition your adjustables or get new shocks, again shocks should be also rated to the coil (hard coil/ hard shock), adjustables go for recondition(regas) or replace with standard, unless you like corners fast and harder bumps(more wear)
The front should not be a problem, can be reset.
The rear ?? depends on your situation (can you see it)
If they stuffed the castor they could exagerate the effect and you may not need to get new coils, but to the extent your talking, I dont think so - sounds like coils sagging, so check sway bar and shocks as well.
The real issue is actually a balance between performance and good wear, you cannot have both. If you want both, stick to Nissan specs for the exact model, they tested for the optimal of both (the balance), but that is not to say that you cannot add things like crossmember bars that help a lot in tightening or poly bushes that last longer
Hope this helps