jcorbi82

I will be giving my Nissan the gift of being fixed, and that - at this point - is going to be a Motor re-building! I have reasonably determined that my Head Gasket - yes, the second, "used" one - had made the engine act as a normal engine when first installed over the 1st leaky-then-blown gasket, then followed the suit of that 1st gasket and Blew (the fact that it was not new becoming irrelevant when it did,) but likely leaking 1st before blowing, as my smoking post indicated from some months ago. This is the lead-in history that my engine will be getting a top-end rebuild; I am even buying the new Cylinder head off a 1989 KA24E that has been pressure-tested for no leaks... good enough for me.

--- Engine History, leading me to amass all this information to prevent endless recurrence: I suspect that after going through 2 head gaskets (1st: Temp ALWAYS crept up when the AC was on, and after running with it with low coolant once and watching the temp gauge go up to top-most bar before Solid one, it became leaky... hindsight = the radiator was clogged, as new radiator was installed with used HG. 2nd: = "Used HG", solved problem of Bubbling Coolant, and acted good for a long time; blew when Upper Radiator Hose developed Leak, and turning on AC for 1st time in the year made temp go up to the 2 thin High NBars on temp gauge, which developed into the "Overheating noise" and leading up to the smoke coming from the crankcase, at which point no patches helped,) my Cylinder Head itself is most likely damaged. In reality, it could have been damaged from the 1ST time the HG blew, and was a warped/hole in it/leaky??? head that was put back on top of that USED HG, so I figure the best replacement parts, this time, is the "new" Head AND a NEW Head Gasket, although i am considering the Gasket KIT that includes the Head Gasket, instead of just the Head Gasket.

I do have to let a shop do it. I have neither the time, nor the mechanical knowledge or inclanation to take eben the top of the engine apart myself. I can change my own oil, filter included; flush a radiator, easier on a manual transmission car; and that's about it. I need to spend my time working, and let the 240SX get back to good health. I know some facts about my car that are easily solvable:

1) The battery is STONE DEAD. This is from prolonged listening to the Radio, and letting my mobile phone charge, for a week without starting the car. This can be solved by the free charge at AutoZone, or by letting the shop put it on their charger... fast or slow charge, as long as it is on there for at least 3 hours the alternator on my car is still good for when it still starts.
2) I need a new UPPER RADIATOR HOSE. I saw the coolant leak coming from this hose before the car didn't start anymore. This is also why I think my Head is finally garbage-grade, because where did that pressure come from to blow a leak in my hose???
3) The radiator should be flushed very well, and should be 100% water for the duration of this top-end engine examination... to get rid of the remnants of the Bar's Patch i tried so hard to get in there, when there was still about 25% antifreeze still in the system.
4) If any aspect of the Starting system was preventing it from starting when the battery had a charge, it will be solved as a part of this engine work, to get the engine to start, run, and idle smooth. The Distributor and things will be timed here, and very likely new Spark Plugs and Wires, all NGK (NGK Blue wires, I found them online, not in parts stores.)
5) My Alternator is still brand-new, and if the Water Pump did sieze, then obviously it will get a new one. I'm sure my alternator will keep turning.

As far as after that goes, the head from EBay will go on - pressure-tested - and the Head Gasket, whether by itself or in an Engine Gasket kit, will be NEW. Aside from that, I wonder from the pros of this board, and this is finally my Checkilst request:

1) What are some things to check for when the head of the engine is off? I am sure there may be a pool of coolant/oil in the cylinders when the top of the engine is off, I have seen that on cars in shops that are there for new Head Gaskets... I am sure they vacuum that out with a WetDry Vac and continue, but what are some things to inspect and clean, at this first stage before disassembly and reassembly?

2) Valves are in the head, yes? (My old valves SOUNDED Fried, very clicky and very Hot on the last runs of the engine.) So this new Cylinder Head should have all that I see from when the Oil Cap is off... I see the top rods, and the valves and everything seem to be new, in this head! - 5 pictures in the listing, it seems to be a complete Head. (I DID list the URL of the auction, but I became paranoid because I need to win that, so I withheld it... please don't go winning the auction I need, I'd appreciate it since the head I need doesn't come along everyday! I can, however, give the EBay listing of a complete KA24E for $80 out of St. Louis, Missouri on EBay, just IM me. Thanks.)

3) What would the Board members do, and clean, before putting your Head and Gasket back together?

4) Any way to buy all the vacuum lines in a pack, like they have the various gaskets?

5) is the Valve Cover Gasket also a normal thing to replace in this operation?

Thank You! -- This is kind of like B-Inky's post, but I don't have the digital camera and engine doing myself. Thanks for your insight and tips on the "Top-End Rebuild Checkilst To Do It Right."

P.S.: You can tell I am kind of a newbie to all this, but I also like to consider every question and angle that could come up so I can be prepared, in the absence of me being able to pull out wrenches and put the car up on a lift and fix anything that comes my way. I already know how to keep a properly-running engine maintained and from EVER blowing its Head Gasket. This post is about getting it to that point. Thanks.