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leak started after jacking my car up.

4K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  mvh2011 
#1 ·
I recently got an 87 300zx turbo that has been sitting in the navada desert for roughly 13 years. It's clearly evident that the desert climate has taken its toll on her. The last time the vehicle was started was about 5 years ago and it was in no condition to drive, it hasnt since ran.

I had jacked the car up to examine the front suspension and noticed both dust boots on the inner tie rods were split in two. I crawled under the next morning and found a half dollar sized spot on the ground under the passenger side tie rod and alay least a square foot sized piluddle under the driver side. Where the car was moved from before transport to my house was dry. On the driver side I observed drops coming from what I assume to be the power steering gear (not sure if that's what it's called) any idea what it could be?
 
#2 ·
Most prob power steering fluid.

It is possible for the front tires to have turned during transport and/or parking causing pressure to build up in the system.

I wouldn't worry about too much. You will have bigger fish to fry once you start the car.

You should really be able to figure out the leak with the car running.
 
#3 ·
I would definitely agree with that saying. since I last posted I have replaced the fuel pump and it would not start so I did the old carb cleaner test and got some combustion, now it runs but only with the gas pedal floored. My guess is seriously limited fuel injectors, it will only Rev to about 3500 and takes a good 10 seconds to get there. what's your take on that?
 
#4 ·
Could be anything.

Check for spark, fuel pressure and run the diagnostics on the ECU.

I'm in the process of staring mine after 2 years and my buddies told me to:

Drain all old fuel
Change oil
Clean and gap spark plugs
Lube cylinders before startup
Turn engine by hand after lube
Change brake fluid
Replace tires

and that's just to go around the block.
 
#5 ·
13 years in the desert, or anywhere, sitting, is something I would have stayed away from! Just for kicks, contact Nissan with your VIN# and see if the fuel injection campaign was done on it. I doubt that it's still an open campaign, but you never know! The fuel injector hoses were prone to leakage, so Nissan had a voluntary campaign to replace the fuel injector rail and injector assemblies and connectors, along with various hoses, connectors and the fuel pressure regulator, as needed. It had to have cost them a fortune! Maximas and V6 200SX's were also in the campaign.

Fuel varnishes over time, gumming up the fuel system. It's not a surprise that the fuel pump was bad. I wouldn't be surprised if the injector plungers are gummed up nor that the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm is any good. It sounds like you may have leaking P/S rack & pinion seals along with your bad bellows; if that's the case, I would recommend you replace the entire rack & pinion assembly. I would also replace the brake master cylinder, brake calipers and brake hoses and pads. Brake seals don't fare well sitting for years without use and the last thing you want is to have them fail when you least expect it. Replacing of the timing belt is also a must! I would get a Gates Timing belt component kit w/ water pump from Rockauto.com and also replace the front cam and crank seals and drive belts, which I would get from Nissan. I would also recommend genuine Nissan or NGK spark plugs, wires and cap & rotor. Tires older than 6 years, especially when they haven't been driven, should be replaced. Keep in mind some Z31 parts can be expensive and plan on spending a lot of money to get this car safe and reliable. You really need to think about what you are getting into. Do you sink a small fortune in money and time on this car...or get out now before it's too late!
 
#6 ·
Keep in mind some Z31 parts can be expensive and plan on spending a lot of money to get this car safe and reliable. You really need to think about what you are getting into. Do you sink a small fortune in money and time on this car...or get out now before it's too late!
Im already seeing that in the first month of owning this car. I just so happened to get the car for a steal, a whopping $0. It was my fathers before he passed away. So my biggest problem is time (so I hope), and it's only going to cost what I put into it.

I do plan on doing the timing belt eventually but my biggest concerns now are getting it drivable. I have done the injectors since my last post and noted immediate results, it now can fully Rev along with putter around the neighborhood.

It does have a wierd idle issue that's driving me nuts. I crank it over and it starts nice and fast with almost no effort and idles great for about 10 seconds then it slowly gets rougher to the point it's about to die. Then it will start to pick up again until its decent and thus it continues to cycle. the car is extremely hesitant at those low points to any throttle and will backfire from intake and the exhaust.
 
#7 ·
Previous Quote: " 13 years in the desert, or anywhere, sitting, is something I would have stayed away from! "


I had a aunt that left a Toyota sitting for 10-plus years, and thought I would clean it up, and see if it was a driver. I was living in "la-la land"
that car has lines that were dryed up, the oil, and fuel was caked up.

but at least I tryedto change oil, and rotate tires, but like my ol roommate use to say about a lot of things, specifically about wanting to kick somebodies ass:

" Just 'taint worth it... Just 'taint worth it..."
but , on the other had it is a Z car, and I havent see any photos.
maybe post some photos...
 
#10 ·
Previous Quote: " on the other had it is a Z car, and I havent see any photos.
maybe post some photos...
I would consider the car in fair-good condition if it was running correctly 110k miles had regular maintenance done on time for the most part before it sat
 

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#8 ·
Even getting a car for free may not be worth it if the cost of fixing it ends up being more than the car is worth. Of course, having been your father's, there may be sentimental value which one can't put a price on. That all said, don't put off the timing belt too long. All it takes is for a few, dry-rotted, rubber teeth to break off of the belt and you could be looking at a valve job or worse. Good luck with your project!
 
#9 ·
It does have a wierd idle issue that's driving me nuts. I crank it over and it starts nice and fast with almost no effort and idles great for about 10 seconds then it slowly gets rougher to the point it's about to die. Then it will start to pick up again until its decent and thus it continues to cycle. the car is extremely hesitant at those low points to any throttle and will backfire from intake and the exhaust.
Mine does the same. There is an idle control valve on the driver's side of the manifold. I'm going to take mine out and clean it.

Let me know if you figure out what is.
 
#11 · (Edited)
It does have a wierd idle issue that's driving me nuts. I crank it over and it starts nice and fast with almost no effort and idles great for about 10 seconds then it slowly gets rougher to the point it's about to die. Then it will start to pick up again until its decent and thus it continues to cycle. the car is extremely hesitant at those low points to any throttle and will backfire from intake and the exhaust.
Mine does the same. There is an idle control valve on the driver's side of the manifold. I'm going to take mine out and clean it.

Let me know if you figure out what is.
I'm going to have to try that, carb cleaner and a wire brush? mines pretty nasty looking. I noticed to that if I unplug the maf the car idles fantastic minus the awefull smell of gas. On another note, I am relatively new to this forum is there a way to kill this post? I feel I'm straying too far off topic and do not want to fill the feed with all my crap
 
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