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Starting to use oil...should I worry??

22K views 53 replies 7 participants last post by  ReasonOne 
#1 ·
Hey guys! My 2006 X-Trail which I bought in November 2014 with 286K on it now has about 327K. It runs great and gets good mileage. My last oil change was done at almost 8000 km from the previous one (for some reason the guy wrote that on the sticker although usually it is 6000 km). Another mechanic I like to use did the last one and when he undid the plug, he said I better come and look as there was a problem. About 1/2 liter of oil drained out and it was very dirty. He was shocked that my engine hadn't seized up. He knows the other mechanic who did the previous one and didn't think he would have forgotten to out the oil in! He could not find any leak and I have not seen any on the ground. Nor does it appear to be burning oil as there is no smoke or smell that we can see...He told me if it is using oil that badly I had better get rid of it! He said keep checking it and we have been. Yesterday we could see that it was down to the notch below full, after about 2K km. I am going to get some oil today so we can top it up, and will be having some new headlamp bulbs installed so will talk to the guy again today.

So, how long do these SUVs go?? I cannot afford to get rid of it and buy anything else at this point. How much oil use is acceptable and how much is a red flag? What possible causes are there? If there is no smoke or leaks where the heck is it going? Thanks!!! :eek:
 
#2 ·
After putting on 8,000 km, motor oils will get dark and look dirty; this is normal. Upon draining, if the engine really only had a 1/2 liter of oil, then either the previous oil change wasn't refilled fully or the engine is burning oil or there is an oil leak. A good way to test for oil burning is to first fully warm up the engine. Stand behind the car. Have someone rev the engine to 4,000 RPM and hold at that RPM for about 15 seconds. If you see a lot of blue smoke come out of the tailpipe, the engine is burning excessive oil.

You need to check the oil level more frequently to be on the safe side. You're lucky that the engine didn't seize up! When you said that it was down to the notch below full, after about 2Km, where about on the dip stick was that. Was it down near the "L" mark; if so, it's abnormal. If it's near the "H" mark, that's OK, expected normal use. Your dip stick may be different from my picture.

 
#3 ·
Hi Molly,
That is sad. Shows the importance of checking your oil level occasionally, as well as all of your fluids. Also how important it is to check yourself after an oil change to insure its been filled properly. My problem in the past was always overfilling, which would require me to bring the x back and have some drained out. Consequently for the past year and half, I have been doing my own oil changes. Easy to do with the car on the ground and with the wheels turned out a bit so you access the oil filter easily.
Guess you will have to keep an eye on yours now, and hopefully there has not been too much damage. I wonder though if you have suffered some pre-cat damage that has affected the engine. Seeing you and the previous owner had issues leading to its replacement with a used one, maybe the ceramic has been disintegrating. Has me curious if these should be replaced, as a precautionary measure at a certain age and mileage. I would love to hear from you Rogoman about this.
Obviously my scenario and Molly's are quite different. She is at the equivalent of 200,000 miles on her engine. In her shoes, I would try a high mileage engine oil and keep a record of how much its consuming over the next month or so. In my case I have the equivalent of a bit over 100,000 for the same age vehicle. Runs beautifully and doesn't burn any oil between changes. Knock on wood but everything works perfectly on it ( other than a hand brake needing adjustment). I would like to keep it up for another 3 or 4 years. Should I bite the bullet next spring and replace it, or should I wait until a problem shows up?
 
#5 ·
I wonder though if you have suffered some pre-cat damage that has affected the engine. Seeing you and the previous owner had issues leading to its replacement with a used one, maybe the ceramic has been disintegrating. Has me curious if these should be replaced, as a precautionary measure at a certain age and mileage. I would love to hear from you Rogoman about this.
Obviously my scenario and Molly's are quite different. She is at the equivalent of 200,000 miles on her engine. In her shoes, I would try a high mileage engine oil and keep a record of how much its consuming over the next month or so. In my case I have the equivalent of a bit over 100,000 for the same age vehicle. Runs beautifully and doesn't burn any oil between changes.
Hi Quad,
What's interesting about the CAT disintegration problem is that Nissan had a recall on Altimas 2002-2006 with the QR25DE engine but I didn't hear anything about other models in the same year range. I own a 2009 Altima with a QR25DE and two years ago got a recall notice for the CAT fix; the dealer replaced the exhaust manifold along with the pre-CATs and re-programmed the ECU. I guess Nissan decided to extend the recall to newer year models.

From what I've been told about longevity of the pre-CATs, as long as there are no long term mis-fires, the pre-CATs should last a long time without any danger of disintegration.

Hope this helps.
 
#4 ·
Thanks!! The mechanic told me also to check every 1000 km. and to keep a record of how much oil is added when. He was not sure if those special oils would help, but agreed we could use it in the next oil change and see. I will keep an eye on the mileage I get also.
 
#6 ·
Hey Rogoman
Thanks for the answer. That is interesting about the recall on the 2009, as I thought there had been a redesign after 2006 that rectified the issue. Must admit with regards to mine, there were quite a few threads of people expressing concern back in 2008 or so, but not many actual postings from X trail owners who had a disintegrating pre cat. I know the ecu is programmed differently on ours than on the Sentras and Altimas with the 2.5. With the automatic it's really rare to run it at high revs, and its not like mine does lots of engine braking. Nor do I use the vehicle in anyway that taxes its capabilities which are quite extensive. Anyway I am starting to realize actual problems with the pre cat do not come on all of a sudden, and ones that actually do get to the point where they are disintegrating are because the engine has been running lean for a good while, there is a fuel leak or some other real problem with ignition. I am starting to believe that many people just flat out ignore their malfunction indicator light. My understanding is it is supposed to give you a heads up on a problem so that it can be fixed before more serious damage occurs. Ignoring it doesn't lead to the best outcomes.

So thanks for the reassurance, and hopefully its Pre-CAT for life for me. Joyeux Noël!
 
#9 ·
Hi Otomodo
I have been researching this, and for the cat to go bad requires it to be contaminated by oil, coolant or fuel. If the engine is running rich or not fully combusting gasoline it gets to the cat and over time causes it to deteriorate. So if yours is bad, something else has been going on that needs repair. Could be leaky fuel injectors, valves, rings, gaskets, maybe even bad O2 sensors. Maybe you should have it diagnosed. Give you an idea of what is needed to get it running right seeing you are up in the air as to whether or not to keep the beast!
 
#10 ·
Since the wife only runs 4 km to work and comes home for diner, i tought the cat won t get hot enough to stay clear.
By the way i m driving it to gatineau (Val des Monts) this chrismas. Usually the wife and Jr. sleep all the way, so i 'll have the chance to drive it like i ve stole it.


Envoyé de mon LG-D852 en utilisant Tapatalk
 
#11 ·
Hello Molly,
My 2005 QR25 Exy uses about a liter and a half +/- between oil changes, it only has 172,000km, but a lifetime of city driving, cheap oil and cheap filters (before I owned it) takes a toll. I don't have any leaks that I can find, I just attribute it to an old engine. I check my oil about once a week and top it off if she needs it. Oil changes are around every 6,000km. It still runs well, but its had 10 years of daily driving. On these old cars, the fluids have to be checked frequently to prevent problems that can destroy your car.
In my opinion, since your Exy was almost ran out of engine oil, check it once a week (or more) to make sure it stays at the correct level and make a note of the level each time you check it (I use a note app on my smart phone for this).
 
#12 ·
So it turns out it may not be using oil after all. We rechecked it on a more level spot, when it was cold, and it read full. So this would indicate that the guy who changed the oil the second-to-last time actually didn't put any in or didn't put in much! I will get the guy who did it last time to do it next time it is due! BUT it is very dirty...well, very dark. What could be causing this? And, should we switch to either synthetic or that high-mileage oil? Should we start getting it done more frequently? Calculated my gas mileage again and it is around 9.5/100 km. Lower than before but I have been idling it a lot due to the cold weather...Thanks!!

HAPPY CHRISTMAS to all you helpful Nissan folks out there!!!
 
#13 ·
Hi Molly Merry Christmas to you as well. Getting dark is good as it means its doing its job, but given what happened you would probably be best off draining it off and putting in new oil and a filter. I think I would also try an oil for high mileage engines. Don't bother with synthetic, as your better off with more frequent oil changes rather than extending the change interval which is one of the main reasons to use synthetic.
And lower mileage is normal at this time of year because of winter gas formulations with more ethanol.
 
#15 ·
Joyeux Noel Otomodo. Hope you enjoyed the drive and that your ''Italian Tune-up'' did the trick.

And Molly, all I can say is good thing you did not buy a Subaru. Just take an extra 45 seconds every second fill up to check and also keep an eye on your other fluid levels.
Happy Holidays.
 
#16 ·
Update...

So I am due for an oil change any day, at 326K. We did add just under 1/2 quart at about 324K and just over 1/2 quart at about 325K. I guess we will try some of that high-mileage oil when we get it done. Is this amount of use OK?

My hubby is getting pretty worried about the high mileage on it and the fact that it is using some oil. He is wondering if we should find another motor to put into it! I would think that would be pretty costly, even if we could find one...

Opinions? :|
 
#18 ·
So I am due for an oil change any day, at 326K. We did add just under 1/2 quart at about 324K and just over 1/2 quart at about 325K. I guess we will try some of that high-mileage oil when we get it done. Is this amount of use OK?

My hubby is getting pretty worried about the high mileage on it and the fact that it is using some oil. He is wondering if we should find another motor to put into it! I would think that would be pretty costly, even if we could find one...

Opinions? :|
For an engine that has over 200,000 mi on it, burning 1/2 qt of oil after putting on 1243 mi is not that bad at all. You can certainly try the high-mileage oil, but there's guaranty that it'll help. Stay with a good brand of motor oil, don't use a heavier oil then what's recommended and don't put any additives in the engine oil.

If you're getting paranoid about the reliability of the engine, you can always check the condition of the engine by doing a compression test on all cylinders; standard reading: 181 psi, minimum 154 psi, differential limit between cylinders 14 psi.

Listen for any timing chain noise; of course, there should be none.

Easy start-ups, smooth idle and good power.

If the above conditions are true, there's no need for another engine.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Hi Molly,
Does sound a bit excessive, though its fairly normal for a higher mileage engine to burn a bit of oil. No sign of leaks under the vehicle in the morning? A concern would be the problems it had with the pre cat needing replacement which could have affected the engine and the piston rings specifically if some of the ceramic material got sucked back into it. However that is worse case scenario and the fact that it is still running well and getting good gas mileage should be a bit reassuring to you. It would be worth it to try an oil formulated for high mileage engines, as lets face it that is what you have. Also I think its normal to go through a bit more oil in winter time especially with the cold we get in Canada.
And for further comfort, read the following.
Excessive Oil Consumption Isn't Normal - Consumer Reports

At least you will be able to reconcile yourself with the fact that yours is no worse than many Subarus and some pretty high end vehicles which are much younger and burn as much if not more than yours does. If you read the comments you will also read about Hondas, Toyotas, VWs and even other Nissans suffering similar issues. Should make you a bit more cautious in wishing for a younger lower mileage vehicle.

I say do as you are doing. Keep an eye on it and top up when needed. It shouldn't leave you stranded if that is what you are worried about.
re Engine replacement, could be done. So could an engine rebuild but you aren't there yet from what I can tell. Hopefully others can chime in and share their thoughts.
 
#19 ·
Thanks, guys. I am getting an oil change this morning and will ask Gary about the compression test. I asked him about that fancy oil but he suggested to keep using what we have been using. I'll do some more research into that high mileage stuff, though. Replacing the motor is a big expense, I found out, and not worth it in this case. If the rest of the car was in mint shape, maybe, but it is not. I think we will just keep it for now, and reconsider a bit later. If we wait too long to sell it, it will have even more kms on it, making it that much harder to get a decent amount of dough back. And of course, there is no guarantee that getting a low-mileage vehicle will not have its problems either!
 
#20 ·
''We did add just under 1/2 quart at about 324K and just over 1/2 quart at about 325K.''
From the above I conclude her engine used just over a 1/2 quart in 1000 kms or 621 miles.
I think the compression test is a good call. Maybe a leak test as well?

And Molly you have me curious about X trail values in Alberta. On Kijiji there are around 45 of them for sale throughout the province
Here is the cheapest one available with an automatic and it has 280,000 kms and is in Lethbridge. Its also the one with the highest mileage and the price listed is 3895.

2006 Nissan X-trail SE SUV, Crossover | used cars & trucks | Lethbridge | Kijiji

Cheapest manual looks to be a great deal at $3000 with 237,000
2005 Nissan X-trail LE SUV, Crossover | used cars & trucks | Calgary | Kijiji

Must be true you don't use salt on the roads there, the bodies on most I peeked at look to be in great shape.


Otherwise they move up in price rapidly to top out at 10K with most around 6 to 7,0000 but all with less than 175,000 kms

Guess you know where I am going with this... eh eh.. sell yours and get one with 150,000 less kms lol.
 
#25 ·
Must be true you don't use salt on the roads there, the bodies on most I peeked at look to be in great shape.


Otherwise they move up in price rapidly to top out at 10K with most around 6 to 7,0000 but all with less than 175,000 kms

Guess you know where I am going with this... eh eh.. sell yours and get one with 150,000 less kms lol.
We use lots of salt, but if we get chinooks, the roads dry off pretty quick...Car washes do well out here, trying to rinse that stuff off one's car regularly! I think we will hold on for now, and reassess in the spring. If we could get no less than 3K, it may be best to take our lumps early. On the other hand, Gary, our mechanic, thinks we may was well run it for awhile as he thinks it is fine otherwise. He does not want me to do anything I don't need to do which is pretty refreshing, haha!
 
#21 ·
I don't no where the oil is going but mine is the same it seams to smoke when the oil is full up when the oil drops to the bottom of the stick no smoke.Still fine to drive stopped the tappet noise buy using castrol 5w30 synthetic the oil light will come on soon before death passed the mot with no problem the oil has to be burning of like an overfil safety thats blocked.
 
#27 ·
Hi Chewydarth,
Welcome to the forum. Its great that you want to contribute, but how about editing your posts a bit so that they are intelligible? No insult intended, I would simply like to be able to understand clearly what you are writing. For example I can guess that mot means Ministry of Transport, but while that may be something required in your country or province, its not applicable to everyone. In this case I do not believe Alberta has such annual inspections.
 
#28 ·
Hi again Molly,
Sounds like you have finally found a good mechanic that you can rely upon. That is half the battle in owning an older vehicle. I am just curious how you are measuring your oil level and determining you are down half a quart. Usually the amount between the min and max fill lines is a quart, and any measurement in between there is acceptable. Also you should be measuring after the vehicle has sat for a few hours, or first thing in the morning.
 
#30 ·
Yes, we know to check oil when engine is cool! It was just what hubby ended up putting in so that it read full, and he estimated that he put in half a quart. So we will keep checking on a regular basis, and I will also keep an eye on what X-Trails are going for, in case we want to sell it this spring. There are a lot for sale right now! When I bought this, there were less than half a dozen on the market, including Kijiji and Autotrader.

Do you belong to that Facebook group for X-Trails? I do. Some fancy rigs on there!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/4066548041/
 
#32 ·
Hi ReasonOne!

That is a good story! And welcome! I have posted a few issues on here...I too found this site right after buying. I was a bit hasty...it was the only one we looked at, and I got panicky, never a good reason to buy anything! But it is fun to drive, has a nice assortment of squeaks and rattles, gets good mileage and does not look too bad. It does seem that these SUVs have a following, so hopefully when we are able to upgrade, we won't lose too much money. ;)
 
#33 · (Edited)
Good stuff ReasonOne. That looked like a great deal to me for 3K or less. I think between that and your wife's new Rogue, you won't need to decorate for Christmas next year. Will be very interested to hear your comparison. I have expressed my thoughts in a few different threads on the two vehicles. You will find lots of good info here to maintain it at affordable prices, and if you do some of your own mechanical work you will find it quite easy to work on. Gotta love getting a good vehicle for less than a tenth of its original cost. My jalopnik hat is off to you!
 
#37 · (Edited)
Hi Molly again Molly while taking a coffee break, I decided to peek for you. Best deal I can find for 2 rotors and a set of front pads delivered to your door in Longview Alberta including gst and free shipping would cost $90.54 cdn. If on a budget or not wanting too spend too much on a vehicle I would get rid of in a year or two, its what I would buy.
https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/autostar/ni490/

and pads made in Canada --https://www.thewrenchmonkey.ca/products/auto-parts/ideal/fit865/

and if you want to splurge a bit more-- 2006 Nissan X-Trail Disc Brake Hardware Kit Canada
for an extra $16 + gst
So grand total of approx $108 for the parts + some brake lube ( 1 or 2 packs of this will do you at $1.49 each--though I am sure your mechanic will have some)
Caliper Lube, 5 g | Canadian Tire

It will feel like you have new brakes. Hope this may be a solution for you and that you will feel the love for your X Trail once again.
 
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