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making 1996 sentra run after years

32K views 195 replies 4 participants last post by  carguy101 
#1 ·
Hello, this is my second post!

I have a 1996 nissan sentra with a GA16DNE engine, and manual transmission. It hasnt been running in years and i need help on making it run.

first, the rear brakes are stuck. does anyone know what i should do to free the brakes? they are drum brakes by the way.

second, the engine might be stuck up. i have removed the spark plugs and sprayed penetrating oil in the cylinder, and i wanted to turn the engine by hand first. how do i do this? could i turn it with a wrench on the pulley? and how could i access this pulley? do i have to remove the wheel and the plastic thingy behind it?

third, i was trying to move the shift lever but it wont budge, any idea on how to make it move again?

and lastly, when i push the clutch pedal it doesnt go up anymore, what should i check?

sorry for so many questions, i really want to make my sentra run again but i dont know that much about nissan vehicles. but i do have a bit of experience in fixing cars.

thanks!
 
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#2 ·
To remove the rear brake drum, first hit the drum with a large hammer at several spots around the drum to see if it'll loosen up. If the brake shoes are tight against the drum, then remove the plug from the backing plate to access the adjuster; you can use a small screw driver to turn the adjuster to shorten it which should give the needed clearance for removing the drum.

You can use a long breaker bar to turn the crank pulley center bolt. Turn it only in a clockwise direction. If you can't access the bolt from the top, remove the passenger side tire and I believe there's an engine side cover that can be removed to give you full access to the bolt.

For the transmission, check the shift linkage for any bent components otherwise there may be internal problems.

The clutch master cylinder may not have any fluid. If so, you'll need to fill it with brake fluid and proceed to bleed the master cylinder and all the brakes.
 
#3 ·
Chances are if there is no clutch fluid, it has likely leaked out. That's the problem with letting cars sit for long periods of time; seals will go bad and metal parts will rust. The crank bolt head should be 27MM, or 1-1/16". You have to get the vehicle out of gear before you can attempt to turn the engine manually. My suggestion would be to start with the hydraulic clutch system and get that working. Once that works, you can try and get the transmission out of gear and then proceed to turning the engine.
 
#5 ·
Like SMJ said, You have to get the vehicle out of gear before you can attempt to turn the engine manually. The rings may be rusted to the cylinder walls which will make it more difficult to break the crankshaft loose but with a long breaker bar you should be able to free it up. However if the rod/main bearings are heavily seized up, it may be nearly impossible to free up the crank.
 
#9 ·
just an update for this thread,
ive been having troubles accessing this site (a "dns server cannot be found" thingy) and ive been meaning to ask this since a few weeks ago:

btw, i got the car running already.
the clutch pedal does not go up anymore if you push it, maybe the whole clutch has "rust welded" itself to the flywheel?

any ideas on how to free the clutch?

and btw again, does anybody know if the GA16DNE engine has an o2 sensor? i cant seem to find one on mine...
 
#14 ·
It looks like your car is spec'd to Mexican standards that doesn't comply to any U.S. emission standards.

I've seen some clutches get stuck in a disengaged position. This seems to happen with some aftermarket diaphram types where the pressure plate fingers are pushed in beyond the normal disengage position and get stuck there. I've had that happen to one my Chevy cars years ago; the solution was to replace the clutch assembly with an OEM unit.
 
#15 ·
also, could i drill out the brake shoe retaining pin in an attemp to free up the rear brakes?

the only rear brake stuck actually is the rear left brake, i was able to free up the right side.

i dont think the brake shoe is rusted to the drum anymore because i could move the wheel about half a turn then theres this clank i hear and a springy sound, then it just stops...
 
#18 ·
another update about the brakes: i removed the front calipers a few days ago, and all the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir has drained out...

and today, i just reinstalled the calipers and im trying to bleed the brakes, but no fluid is coming out.

i thought the bleeder valve was clogged so i removed and cleaned it but still nothing...

and yes, i already filled the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
 
#21 ·
That clutch lever has a rod straight down into the housing. The throw out bearing mounts on that rod. The rod also has a strong spring that causes it to flex back into position, after the cable has pulled it backwards (toward the firewall).

If you are saying the lever can be pulled backwards but will not spring back, then the spring has broken or come off.

The lever does have some natural upward lift, but not much.

If the spring is off or broken, the housing would have to be removed (tranny dropped) to access the lever/bearing/spring/roll pin.
 
#23 ·
<how long do you think it would take for a mechanic to do the job?>

Doable in a day, for sure.

But, they will need to source the spring and/or lever and/or bearing.

Likely OEM available only.

There also is a dust seal at the top of the lever, which, depending upon what is replaced inside the housing, also might need sourcing and replacing.

Can you tell if the spring is still attached to the lever inside the housing?

Any flexing back?

Or do you think the throw-out bearing came off the lever?
 
#25 ·
Hard to say. It could have fatigued due to thousands of flexes (and is still sitting there) or broke due to usage or rust (and is dangling, useless). But, there also could be another failure.

Hang with me for a second:
The spring sits on the top of the bearing C-shaped holder/lever on (around) the rod lever itself (as the rod goes down through the holder/lever) and is flexed against the holder/lever. The bottom spring end has a 90' angle that rests on the holder/lever, while the top end of the spring is straight and rides against the lever rod. The spring (sits horizontally and) pivots as the lever rod is rotated, and is supposed to flex back into position (when the rod is released, via the cable, via the pedal). The holder/lever also has 2 small straight pins (about 1/16" each) at each end of the "C" (one at top pointing up and one at bottom pointing down) that the bearing retainers mount/sit on (the retainers are small squarish metal tangs that hold the throw-out bearing onto the C-shaped holder/lever). And the holder/lever mounts to the lever rod via 2 small horizontally-installed roll pins.

Any of those parts could have failed or fatigued: spring, its bottom 90' angle end, its straight end, the retainer pins, the retainers, even the roll pins (inside the lever rod). I doubt the holder/lever itself would have failed as it is hardened metal, but its ends are the thinnest points, so suppose that is possible also. If you can tell "from feel" if the bearing is still attached to the rod (via the holder/lever), that would be helpful to know. What do you think - bearing still on or dangling loose?

Also, doubt that both retainer pins or both retainer tangs or both roll pins would have failed; so, because of that, it is doubtful the lever rod could be pulled straight up. Assuming the rod does not come straight up, that would suggest the holder/lever is still on (at least partially).

But, it is possible ONE of the retainer pins or retainers or roll pins broke, which would have the holder/lever dangling or the bearing dangling, negating the flex-ability of the spring.

Unfortunately, the only way to know what gave/failed/fatigued, is to drop the tranny and bell housing and look inside the bell housing toward the lever rod. Probably don't want to jostle things when doing so, as the failed part(s) may fall out otherwise. Best to see the failed part in its failed state. That way, it will be clear how to put the new one(s) back on correctly.
 
#26 ·
it took me a few minutes to fully understand your post heheheh...

i tried pushing the clutch lever (where the cable attatches to) with a pry bar while the engine is running and i hear a squeaking noise (possibly that the bearing is also shot) but it doesnt return anymore...

i couldnt pull the lever straight up (to the point that it comes off) but i could pull it out a bit until it stops.

maybe the retainers broke off and the spring snapped or something...

in a situation where the clutch isnt stuck to the flywheel and everything else works normally, but suddenly the retainers would break off and the return spring snaps would you still be able to operate the clutch by manually pushing and pulling the lever? just curious, because if you could, maybe i could find a way to free the clutch and manually push and pull the clutch lever so i could drive it to a shop instead of having to tow it to one (i dont think i could do it myself, i might not be able to put it back together lol)
 
#27 ·
<in a situation where the clutch isnt stuck to the flywheel and everything else works normally, but suddenly the retainers would break off and the return spring snaps would you still be able to operate the clutch by manually pushing and pulling the lever? just curious, because if you could, maybe i could find a way to free the clutch and manually push and pull the clutch lever so i could drive it to a shop instead of having to tow it to one >

No and yes. If the retainers break off, the bearing will slide off the C-lever and not be controllable (dangle). But, if just the spring breaks, then yes, the bearing would still be on the C-lever and could be slid toward the pressure plate and slid back away from it.

Normally, what mechanics do to drive a car a short distance when a clutch is out, is rev match-shift, quickly. Gears will grind a bit, depending upon how close one gets to the gear shift point.

<tried pushing the clutch lever ... while the engine is running and i hear a squeaking noise >

Takes much pressure to slide the throw-out bearing - and hold it - against the pressure plate. Clutches can apply ~400 lb/in^2 to the flywheel. You likely only slid the bearing partially to the pressure plate, and then it squealed as it and the plate fingers spun, unsync'd. They are intended to jam together rapidly.
 
#28 ·
i know how to shift gears without using the clutch, but my only problem would be putting it in first gear...

well i tried to start the car in first and i was able to do so, but with the traffic situation where i live i doubt ill make it to the shop...

anyway, thanks for your help. maybe sometime this october i could get a mechanic who would do home service, or better yet do it myself...

just a few questions: do i have to support the engine with a jack if i remove the transmission? i only have 1 jack...

and, do i have to remove the driveshaft? i couldnt remove the wheels because my lug nuts are one of those "tuner nuts" and theyre stuck tight... i couldnt get it off at all! the nut itself and the tool would just round out!
 
#29 ·
<just a few questions: do i have to support the engine with a jack if i remove the transmission? i only have 1 jack...

and, do i have to remove the driveshaft? >

Yes [the trans/engine support bracket(s) will be unbolted/disconnected/removed (separate and in addition to the tranny mount)] and yes, both driveshafts/axle sides.

Let us know how things turn out.
 
#36 ·
update: i removed the driveshaft, it was a pain removing it without removing the wheels! i had to take the strut off, pull the driveshaft out, then put the strut back on...

ive already removed the clutch cable, and the starter...

btw, could i not drain the transmission oil anymore? the drain plug is stuck on so tight
 
#37 ·
just a quick update/question:

i have removed the transmission already, and i already removed the clutch, i want to remove the flywheel but i cant because the engine turns with the bolt... how do i stop the engine from turning so i could loosen the bolts?

and also, (im going to use the terms from the fsm, in the front axle part FA-15) the boot in the transaxle side broke, and the "spider assembly" just seperated from the "slide joint housing" but the "spider assembly" is attached to the driveshaft. does that really happen?
 
#38 ·
If you pull hard enough on the spider assembly, it will separate. The spider assembly will have to be removed if you're going to replace the boot; follow the procedure in the FSM; always use new snap rings when assembling.

To prevent the engine from turning when loosening the flywheel bolts, you can buy a locking tool or better yet, try this:

 
#40 ·
now yet another update, the flywheel has some clutch material thats rusted on. do i need to have the flywheel resurfaced? could i just sand it down myself?

btw, i think my clutch was still the original that came with the car when it was new and its already at above 200,000 kilometers...

the clutch isnt worn down to the rivets yet but im still going to replace...

i saw a brand called "paraut unisia" and the people at the shop claimed that this "unisia" brand manufactures nissans OE clutches. is that true? is this "paraut unisia" brand any good?
 
#41 ·
If the flywheel has any gouges, cracks or waviness on the surface, then it should be resurfaced, otherwise just sand off the rust.

Paraut Unisia is one of many OEM manufacturers for Nissan clutches. Other OEM manufacturers are Exedy and Valeo. Take your pick; just stay away from some cheap non-OEM aftermarket type.
 
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