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making 1996 sentra run after years

32K views 195 replies 4 participants last post by  carguy101 
#1 ·
Hello, this is my second post!

I have a 1996 nissan sentra with a GA16DNE engine, and manual transmission. It hasnt been running in years and i need help on making it run.

first, the rear brakes are stuck. does anyone know what i should do to free the brakes? they are drum brakes by the way.

second, the engine might be stuck up. i have removed the spark plugs and sprayed penetrating oil in the cylinder, and i wanted to turn the engine by hand first. how do i do this? could i turn it with a wrench on the pulley? and how could i access this pulley? do i have to remove the wheel and the plastic thingy behind it?

third, i was trying to move the shift lever but it wont budge, any idea on how to make it move again?

and lastly, when i push the clutch pedal it doesnt go up anymore, what should i check?

sorry for so many questions, i really want to make my sentra run again but i dont know that much about nissan vehicles. but i do have a bit of experience in fixing cars.

thanks!
 
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#81 ·
Thanks for the pics. Dang, IC Vreg not there; Nissan system diagrams showed it on the US version of your car. Only thing recognizable in the other pic is the blue relay in the upper right. Poor guesses would be related to clock-spring (air bag) or anti-theft or gyro data logger ... have no idea. Any part #s on them we could look up?
 
#82 ·
ill try putting an aftermarket gauge once my CTS comes and see if that would work properly. if it works ill replace the instrument cluster with the stock one (with tach), but if it doesnt... i dunno

i traced the wires of the green box, and they lead to the power locks... ill just remove it since it aint working anyway.
looks like its aftermaket...


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#83 ·
new problem, so i got most of the wiring sorted out and today, after a few days of not starting, it wont start anymore!

on the first attempt, started right away... but also died right away.
on the second attempt, its trying to start up, sorry i cant explain but it sounds like this: *chug chug chug chug* *vrrr vrr vroom* *grug gru grug* *dead*
then: *chug chug chug chug* (only the sound of the starter with no signs of life)

it seems like its flooded, but why? could it be related to what i did on the wirings?


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#84 ·
If the car was running OK prior to the fooling around with the wiring, then yes, it might be related. Reconnect the wiring and see if it fixes the start-up. If not, then it's back to the general trouble-shooting - fuel or ignition failure.

Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body to see if it starts up. If it does, then you've got a fuel delivery failure.
 
#85 ·
I got it running!! heres the story:

I was wondering why the removal of the auto lock system would affect startup, but still i reconnected them just to be safe. but still no luck there

i tried everything, i bought starter fluid and sprayed to no avail, i poured gas, but then i thought to myself hey, its flooded! why am i pouring all sorts of stuff? so i used a hair dryer to dry the cylinders and intake manifold out, and even baked the plugs in the oven!

ALL TO NO AVAIL...

so i thought maybe theres no compression? i dont have a compression tester, but i just poured a little oil in the cylinders... then i tried to start, i hoped it would start cause my battery is dying. it ran! albeit rather roughly...

then i cleaned the spark plugs out, and reinstalled.

im wondering, why didnt i have compression in the first place?




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#88 ·
I installed a surplus one temporarily as the one i ordered hasnt come yet...

Ill check the distributor cap, and I might also replace the spark plug wire...

Voltage when running is 14.3 volts, and BTW the battery light stayed on for a few mins after the car started. But i think a car really does that with a drained battery... or does it?


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#87 ·
It looks like you're lacking some diagnostic tools for auto work. Without knowing the actual compression of every cylinder, it's useless to say there is no compression. Generally when the compression is very very low, it becomes very hard to start the engine, if not able to start it at all. What you've most likely done with adding a little oil in each cyl is brought the compression up just enough so that it's able to at least start. By all means do a compression test; you probably find the compression spec to be way below the minimum standard. If this is so, new rings are in order.
 
#89 ·
I never really bothered buying a compression tester but ill look into it...
but for now, ill just take it to my friend who has one.

and it started quickly too after squirting oil in the cylinders...

if i only find the compression of 1 or 2 cylinders lacking, do i have to replace all the piston rings? or could i just replace the broken ones?


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#90 ·
If you plan to replace piston rings, the entire engine will practically be disassembled so it make sense to do all the cylinders. Be sure to hone all the cylinders to eliminate any high/low spots, out of round conditions, taper and glazing. Just go easy on the honing. You want to end up with a light cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls. If you don't have an FSM, I would strongly recommend getting one.
 
#91 ·
alright, ill see if i could either bring the car to my friend or borrow his compression tester...

also btw, what if i need to have the cylinder rebored, what should i install, an oversize piston ring or an oversize piston? whats the difference/whats better?

and yes i have the FSM.


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#92 ·
yet another update.

i was cleaning up the garage and i found this:


How stupid of me to forget to install those! but i cant seem to find where exactly they bolt on to...

I know that those metal things connect the tranny to the engine, but i cant seem to find info on the FSM.


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#99 ·
By looking at the parts diagram, they bolt on from the tranny to the engine block. Should be easy enough to find the locations by jacking the car up. The gussets are there for a reason; extra needed support; if I was you, I wouldn't run the car on the road without them.
 
#100 · (Edited)
Yes, that was the same pic (but different part of that web site) I was trying to provide (but it was on the actual parts diagram). Had even tested the link after copying. Oh well.

Thanks Rogo.

Concur with Rogo on not driving without the 2 braces.

On ours here, the brace bolts, onto the bell housing-side, go the opposite direction of the bolts from the tranny/bell housing back onto the block. On the block side, they face inward to the block (face away from the radiator on that one and face away from the firewall on the other brace).
 
#102 ·
just to revive this thread, after a brief hiatus... (i sorta ran out of money)

the rear brakes are GONE



should i replace just the brake shoes or also the springs and other components? or do they come as a kit with the brake shoes?

and, as for the wheel cylinder.. seems to be leaking, should i replace or repair? still seems to be the original Nissan ones, dont wanna replace it with lower quality "made in China/Taiwan" would i?



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#103 ·
Dang.

Nissan sells shoes separately from springs/hold-downs/pins.

Nissan has cylinder seal kits - with all 4 seals (2 outers/2 inners), per side. Pistons (per side) are separate.

If rebuilding, probably need to hone the inside (to remove interior rust and so pistons move freely/not bind)and do pistons.

Was wondering how things were progressing.
 
#104 ·
I checked Nissans parts website here and they dont seem to have any in stock, might have to buy from third party or aftermarket parts instead... (unless i want to wait for Nissan to have it)

to hone, you would need the special drill bit right? I think i have one of those ill see if i could find it...

as for the progress, might be a lot slower now as i had to spend for my other cars repair...

as for the sentra though heres the to do list: 4 window regulators, new power lock system, rear brakes, air conditioner repairs (blower, compressor, condenser, etc.), possibly a top end overhaul, radiator (i just patched it up for now), possibly the suspension components, stock wheels (and tires), need to sort out electricals, stock air filter, etc.

I hope to finish everything by the end of the year...


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#105 ·
The hones are usually long slender rectangular grit-pads. They can go in drills for spinning (like when doing the front calipers when those pistons are removed), but for the rear wheel cylinders, being smaller channels, would just slide in and then around (in and out).

Projects sound good/fun. Lots of satisfaction ahead.
 
#106 ·
Yes, I think I have one of those, but I cant seem to find it. Ill just buy a new one if i cant find it...

Project cars really are fun, Its also very satisfying to accomplish the seemingly impossible. Theres also that great feeling of accomplishment that you were able to do it yourself and not let someone else do it for you!


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#107 ·
another update: rear brakes are done, the wheel cylinders were in pretty bad shape, so i just bought some from the junk yard and rebuilt that instead. no pics this time as my camera is not working

and just for future reference to anyone who will be reading this thread: going back to the problem where my coolant temp gauge and fuel gauge arent working (please just backtrack the thread for more info), my instrument cluster did not have an instrument clusted voltage regulator like the US Sentas. if anyone will be having the same problem before thinking that the whole cluster is broken try spraying the gas tank float with contact cleaner/carb cleaner, and see if it works. if it does you will be able to pinpoint that the CTS is the problem!


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#108 ·
Nice update. Bet the drum areas look good again. Were you able to re-use the o-ring seals from the JY wheel cylinders, after you cleaned those? Now, on the fuel gauge, after spraying the variable resistor plate, that gauge began (moving and) correctly registering again? And, you previously replaced the broken CTS with a new one, right? Nice following all the progress.
 
#109 ·
the o-rings of the other JY wheel cylinder was shot, thankfully the one in mine was still in good shape!
yes, the gauge registered correctly again. looks like mine does not have the Vreg... maybe if i replace my IC with the tachometer equipped it might have a Vreg.

yes, CTS was replaced. at first i thought the new CTS was defective as the check engine light was still on after install... but after awhile the check engine turned off and everything was back to normal.

BTW, reverse gear isnt engaging. i mean, like i couldnt find reverse gear all the time... shifter bushing you think?


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#110 ·
A master Nissan tech told me once there is a detent that affects reverse. He said Nissan instructed them to how to replace it. But, over time he found it more constructive to push the detent back down into position.

Have you tried shifting into 3rd, with car stopped, then wait 2-3 sec.s, then shift into 1st and if that is smooth, then shift into 2nd right away and if that is smooth, then go into reverse? All while stopped (car not rolling/moving). Nissan's early Sentra OM's actually used to say, when shifting into R, come to a stop and wait 3 seconds.
 
#111 ·
weird, its actually smooth right now. and i could go to reverse gear without a problem...
it happened a lot of times yesterday when i was trying to bring the car out of the garage... cant seem to replicate the prob anymore, might just be a "glitch"


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#112 ·
Good. Maybe the detent is "just beginning" to lose "threshold" tension.

If it happens again/further, recommend doing the 3rd (stopped), 1st, 2nd, then R, to not aggravate the detent bar further nor grind the gears, since there is no synchro.

Looking forward to the next set of restorative progress reports.
 
#113 · (Edited)
yeah, i should have named this thread "sentra b14 restoration" instead...

i will update soon with suspension work...

but first, i found this:


i accidentally broke the wire while i was cleaning the engine bay, seems like another sensor. connected to the engine block at the back... coolant rushes out when i open the radiator cap, any ideas what it is?

EDIT: seems like another coolant temp sensor, but wait... there are two of them? any ideas on what theyre for?

EDIT 2: according to the fsm, its a thermal transmitter which connects to the coolant temp gauge, so does that mean that the coolant temp sensor that i replaced wasnt related to the CTG? but why did the gauge work when i replaced the CTS?? this is confusing...

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#115 ·
On some Nissans there were actually 3 coolant thermistors. 1-wires were usually coolant temp sender, CTSender, to dash gauge. 2-wires were usually for the ECU for the coolant temp sensor, CTS, itself, and for the radiator fan switch. Radiator fan switches have been phased out, as have most CTSenders. Your pic looks like the CTSender of old.
 
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